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Trap Dike Irene Version + Mt-Marcy 2011/09/10

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  • Trap Dike Irene Version + Mt-Marcy 2011/09/10

    Hello, yesterday, I have climbed the Trap Dike for the first time and its Post Irene version.

    I have started at South Meadows around 8:50 AM, reached Avalanche Lake around 2 hours later.

    I met another guy from Quebec on the bridge on the side of the Lake who was looking at the dike. I confirm with him that was also my plan to climb the Dike.

    I have reached the base of the dike at around 11:00 AM, the base of the debris, is black mud which start to dry creating a crust that reminds you walking on jello.

    I did not stop to either Drink or eat, the climbing was fairly easy and surprisingly very clean, When I saw the aerial picture of the dike earlier in the week, I was concerned about rockfall, so I was aiming at climbing mostly on the side of the Dike, this was no good as it was full of black mud.

    So instead I stick up the center, and climb the first little wall easily, after I reached the waterfall wall, on its right side was a dry rusty looking face, but I choose to climb directly the wet waterfall wall, the holds were solid. At the top of the waterfall I saw the guy I have met on the Avalanche Lake bridge, he started his climb as I continue mine.

    There was no difficulty above, but it is there that I realised what Irene did, mostly removing all vegetables from the both side of the dike. Finally I reached the base of the Irene slide, there was a huge block at the foot of it, which gave me concerns when I have look at the photos. No danger there only an earthquake would be able to move this huge piece of rock which resist the wrath of Irene.

    In my opinion the crux of the whole climb is the start of the slide, in its center it is quite steep with lots of small holds, which look like 5.6-5.7 face climb, not something I want to do in hiking boots , soloing.

    Consequently, I have climbed a left leaning crack on the left side of the slide before traversing right to another flake crack system on my right.

    After these cracks the angle of the slide lessen a lot and I was able to climb it without using my hands.

    I made a detour on my right to avoid another bit of steep slab, before stopping on a ledge to drink, I have built a small 4 inches cairn wrapping a little surprise Not Cash (if it still there by now) , Then I continue upward, the slide becames dirtier with debris ( shredded tree, mud, etc...) Irene left me 2 little difficulties at the base of 2 steepers steps. Black mud which made it very hard to establish yourself on the steeper part. THe last step I had to use the tree on the right side of the slide and stemming put me on the top.

    It took me about 50 minutes to climb the whole affair, and I have wait for about 40 minutes for the other guy to came out, I saw him finally at the top of the dike, but I left to climb Marcy from 4 corners which I reached at 15:10.

    I stayed on top of Marcy for 25 minutes.

    I am sure the other guy made the ascent.

    Great day.
    8000m 0/14

  • #2
    Photos? Us train wreck junkies like to see the gory details :-)

    Comment


    • #3
      nangaparbat!!

      Thanks for keeping it simple and very informative!
      inclined to climb...

      Comment


      • #4
        removing all vegetables from the both side of the dike
        I choose to believe this is real, not troll
        Winter hiking -- "It's so easy an eight year old can do it!"

        - Photobug65

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        • #5
          Originally posted by mirabela View Post
          I choose to believe this is real, not troll
          My translation: removed all vegetation. You never know when you'll encounter a vegetable on an ADK slide though.

          Nice report Nanga, way to get out there and do it!

          Comment


          • #6
            Sorry for my somewhat lousy english, perhaps I was the only vegetable on the dike. No jokes, theres not much living thing in there....

            Go do it, it is perhaps even better now. Who knows.
            8000m 0/14

            Comment


            • #7
              And thanks for the report, seriously. It's bold of you to get in there so soon, with so much unknown.
              Winter hiking -- "It's so easy an eight year old can do it!"

              - Photobug65

              Comment


              • #8
                vegetables

                Thanks for report
                I got it about the vegetables
                vegetables = good to eat, bad on slide
                MG

                Comment


                • #9
                  Good job! Your report answers some of the questions I had in mind. Glad to know my concerns were unfounded. Thanks for posting!
                  May your ambition for the goal allow you to be a student of the journey.

                  www.adirondackmountaineering.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by mudrat View Post
                    Good job! Your report answers some of the questions I had in mind. Glad to know my concerns were unfounded. Thanks for posting!
                    Yes, I was happy too, to realized that the whole thing is much safer than I thought it would be.

                    I am presently thinking of doing one of your testpiece : Colden south slab, I have just reread your post of this ascent , makes me wonder....
                    8000m 0/14

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by nangaparbat View Post
                      Yes, I was happy too, to realized that the whole thing is much safer than I thought it would be.

                      I am presently thinking of doing one of your testpiece : Colden south slab, I have just reread your post of this ascent , makes me wonder....
                      If you're talking about the southernmost of the western slides, it's amazing, but don't take it lightly. It's very steep for the first few hundred feet and you can box yourself in if not careful on some of the areas. That section alone took me twice as long as it normally takes me to do the trap dike. I had to down-climb a couple times to access some more comfortable slab. Make sure you're rock climbing shoes for that one as well. Enjoy it if you go!
                      May your ambition for the goal allow you to be a student of the journey.

                      www.adirondackmountaineering.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mudrat View Post
                        If you're talking about the southernmost of the western slides, it's amazing, but don't take it lightly. It's very steep for the first few hundred feet and you can box yourself in if not careful on some of the areas. That section alone took me twice as long as it normally takes me to do the trap dike. I had to down-climb a couple times to access some more comfortable slab. Make sure you're rock climbing shoes for that one as well. Enjoy it if you go!
                        Hello, its me again , do you think, it is harder than Gothics NW Face The so called North Face? I have done that 3 times and find it fairly easy, but the rocks was very clean were I went on that face.

                        After reading your ascent account, and looking at the pictures you took, it seems lots of route finding may be needed + a rope just in case + may be a steel brush to clean dirty holds.
                        8000m 0/14

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by nangaparbat View Post
                          Hello, its me again , do you think, it is harder than Gothics NW Face The so called North Face? I have done that 3 times and find it fairly easy, but the rocks was very clean were I went on that face.

                          After reading your ascent account, and looking at the pictures you took, it seems lots of route finding may be needed + a rope just in case + may be a steel brush to clean dirty holds.
                          I'm not sure where you climbed the N face, but I didn't make it up that...then again I was just free-climbing and it wasn't clean...lots of lichen. IMO, it's easier than that and the difficult section is about 300' high as opposed to the North Face. Anyway, I ended up in the center of the slide while exploring differnent options and got most of the way up the 300' onto a central ledge. Above was open slab and I couldn't see since what was ahead. I was solo, so I didn't want to chance it and descended a bit and trekked north to the side which was also open slab, but a bit closer to the trees. Water was running down the entirety of it and there was moss aplenty. The surface was quite rough most of the time with the rough divots indicative of that side of colden...like the main slide after the trap dike. I had plenty of finger and toe holds, but it was sketchy at time due to the exposure/moss/water and lack of substantial ledges as it transitioned from a steep to mild pitch. I APPEARED that the southernmost side was a bit easier, but I can't say for certain. I had rope, but didn't use it. You could really spend all day just exploring the first section of that slide.
                          May your ambition for the goal allow you to be a student of the journey.

                          www.adirondackmountaineering.com

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            For those of you who have already forgotten what the dike looks before Irene
                            go see
                            http://www.fousderando.com/download/...4737&mode=view

                            THe Dike the day , I have climbed it

                            http://www.fousderando.com/download/...4737&mode=view

                            The photos were taken exactly 1 year apart.

                            Thanks to Martin , member of fouderandos for providing both photos.
                            8000m 0/14

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              This morning, I went to Avalanche Pass and the Trap Dike to check out the post-Irene changes (I hate the word "damage" in this context), taking 280+ photos. I led a young couple on a bushwhack over to the mouth of the Trap Dike (having done it with my group in August), as they've never been there before. I was just amazed at the field of rubble and other debris at the mouth. They went on and climbed the TD, so I hope they made out OK.

                              On the way back thru Avalanche Pass I checked out the new slide, reported by Phil Brown. Climbed up about half-way until things got pretty steep. As I was hiking alone, I figured it safer to just venture up another time with my group, rather than risk slipping and injuring myself (thus making a bad day); it will still be there. The rock is grippy, though one has to take care to avoid some wet mossy patches and be careful on the muddy spots.

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