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Marcy East Face:A Full Climb-Rappel and Night on Haystack

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  • Hermit
    replied
    Thanks again for sharing a great report with pictures !!

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  • mudrat
    replied
    Jack: Wow, it's hard to respond to such a compliment. ...very touching, thank you. It's a dream come true when the adventures work out safely and somewhat close to how I envision them. Comments like yours are inspirational and, in turn, give me ambition to continue posting! Thanks again.

    DeepForest: Thanks, my friend. It was a pleasure getting out with you again...twas too long. As much energy as we spent, it was incredibly relaxing as well. The diversity of the challenges and conditions made it almost out of body by the time we hit Haystack.I badly needed an extended break like this! I'm glad we both realized a respective dream on this trip. I need to say (better than I did in the report) that you did an incredible job leading the route...I really couldn't have pulled this off without you! So thank YOU for helping this all come together and your continuous humor

    I'm gonna give the "creativity" a short break, but I can already feel the ideas churning regarding winter...

    Trail Boss: Thanks...We gotta get out together soon, Taras. I think you'd have enjoyed this if you like feeling exposure and some extended periods of uncertainty Maybe we can get into PG next year. I can't seem to shake its draw on me!

    Masshysteria: Thank you as always! Nice pucker-factor for sure. I kept rewording a few areas trying to describe it, but words can never encapsulate some of moments. (The video on full screen helps a little bit). I'm going to do a shorter report on the amphitheater this week. We got some decent pics and basically circumnavigated the cliff. Lenticular clouds heralded rain as we got near the top so we kept the ropes in the pack. By the time we got around to the bottom it was raining and we were happy to just be at the locale and not on the face.
    Last edited by mudrat; 09-14-2013, 04:57 PM. Reason: correct crappy grammar

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  • masshysteria
    replied
    Fantastic Kevin, you're skill with the written word has me 'puckered' as I sit in the relative safety of a computer chair ....

    As always, waiting with great anticipation for the Amp downrope epic!

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  • Trail Boss
    replied
    Thanks for sharing the details of your exciting trip! I thoroughly enjoyed reading your well written description of this all-encompassing adventure: Hiking, bushwhacking, rock climbing, and star-gazing!

    Pretty sure I would've enjoyed seconding some of that route (leading, not so much). As for rappels, oh yeah! What a backdrop!


    So the video ends with a "cliffhanger"!
    Anthony rappels out of view.
    Anthony: "Aw, $hit!"
    Kevin: "What?"
    Video ends.

    So what happened?

    Leave a comment:


  • nangaparbat
    replied
    Originally posted by DeepForest View Post
    ......

    Next time we bring pitons as well.
    Hi DeepForest, glad you had a nice outing, just my little grain of salt here, instead of using pins you should use RP nuts, they are much lighter, you do not have a need to carry a hammer + they do not destroy rock.

    They are made of brass and are very good.

    See this for more info and the pic below

    http://www.climbinganchors.com.au/pr...ndividual-nuts

    My hand is used to give perspective of size, Size #1 to #5 bottom 2 top

    Leave a comment:


  • DeepForest
    replied
    Mud- Your ability to think up these unconventional approaches/exits and climbs is redefining the word explorer! You are making a historic mark in Adk slide/slab climbing like no-one before you and it is a real pleasure to join you in any adventure.

    This trip was epic for sure. We were blessed with the most perfect weather imaginable and the face was just the right mix of friction and rock climbing. Doing a full traverse top to bottom of Panther Gorge is a long time dream of mine. Throw in an amazing climb/rappel and a south-north night time crossing of Haystack 's summit makes it almost unbelievable. Reflecting back, I may of had another vision quest.

    Your ability to bush whack and navigate thru the gorge has me convinced there is pine martin in your DNA. I'm really glad you had the foresight to get those cams for protection, they made the climb safe & possible. Next time we bring pitons as well.

    The wind crossing HS was so powerful I thought my contacts were going to blow out of my eyes. I was fighting the wind just trying to put the tips of my hiking poles down without them blowing sideways. It was a good training practice for this winter.

    Looking forward to our next outing into the final frontier to boldly go where no man has gone before.

    Leave a comment:


  • ADKJack
    replied
    Absolutely Spectacular

    I once sat in the quad at Princeton at lunchtime on a sunny afternoon observing several students and faculty in visible thought or daydream. I tried to fathom what form of alliterations took place in such minds.
    That was easy compared to what your daydreams must be like to concieve, plan and execute the amazing adventures you do. Then having completed them share them with us so in turn we might be inspired to dream.
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • mudrat
    replied
    Originally posted by nangaparbat View Post
    We should rename the East Face slab the "MudEast" face of Marcy.

    Your smile on summit of Haystack says a lot about your day, I just would say Haystack was the icing on the "Cake".

    BTW surely a FA your route, next time bring with you a steel brush, that might make a BIG difference when you end up on a patch of mossy rock.

    Kudos to both of you.

    I will go back there, sooner than later.

    See Ya.
    Thanks.
    The brush may have helped in a few areas, but protection was the problem. Many of the overlaps were too thin to feel safe. I'll try and remember a brush next time though.

    Haystack was wicked cool!

    Leave a comment:


  • mudrat
    replied
    Originally posted by Neil View Post
    Or, how bout "Mudface". (that's better than Ratface )
    My wife calls me DumBrat. Anthony just calls me Mud. I'm not picky

    Leave a comment:


  • Neil
    replied
    Originally posted by nangaparbat View Post
    We should rename the East Face slab the "MudEast" face of Marcy.
    Or, how bout "Mudface". (that's better than Ratface )

    Leave a comment:


  • nangaparbat
    replied
    We should rename the East Face slab the "MudEast" face of Marcy.

    Your smile on summit of Haystack says a lot about your day, I just would say Haystack was the icing on the "Cake".

    BTW surely a FA your route, next time bring with you a steel brush, that might make a BIG difference when you end up on a patch of mossy rock.

    Kudos to both of you.

    I will go back there, sooner than later.

    See Ya.

    Leave a comment:


  • mudrat
    replied
    Originally posted by Neil View Post
    Let me know when you want to return for a non-puckering version.
    Will do! I've still got some ideas

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  • Neil
    replied
    Let me know when you want to return for a non-puckering version.

    Leave a comment:


  • mudrat
    replied
    Originally posted by Neil View Post
    Neil Young said it best:

    "Keep on rockin in the free world."

    Huge wow and pucker factors. Thanks for posting such an interesting report. I would be happy just to descend into Panther Gorge and pick an easy line up the slide again.
    Thanks. I think this is as big as I'll get for a while. It really morphed from a slab climb into a technical climb (if you're smart) quickly. I'm still unpuckering Anthony was invaluable as a friend and partner on the rope!

    Leave a comment:


  • Neil
    replied
    Neil Young said it best:

    "Keep on rockin in the free world."

    Huge wow and pucker factors. Thanks for posting such an interesting report. I would be happy just to descend into Panther Gorge and pick an easy line up the slide again.

    Leave a comment:

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