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Saddleback NE, Basin East, Basin SE, Basin Brook Slides...A Day in the Heat

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  • JZ Here
    replied
    Originally posted by mudrat View Post
    I always try to personally err on the safe side of things when I'm out in the backcountry though it may not always appear that way based on what I throw together for climbs . I didn't head for Basin until a few years after I started my slide climbing adventures, once I was really comfortable in my navigation and confidence on open rock w/o protection. If you're not comfy bushwhacking at the moment, I'd really recommend hitting some of the closer slides to start with, ones with bushwhacks involved, to really get the feel of being off the trail and dealing with the obstacles (hidden ledges, sod-holes, mossy slab, blowdown in thick growth etc.). Or you could explore Basin with someone familiar with it.

    Speaking of obstacles, I fell into a waist deep sodhole a couple weeks ago while in the drainage...not really uncommon. I just didn't like the feeling when the boulders behind my leg shifted while I was still in the hole. In 2009 I camped in a similarly sodhole-ridden area with large blocks of stone; the holes were over my head in places, but obvious though i didn't fall in them. That particular area was replaced with the runout of the NE Shoulder Slide.

    Basin is quite remote and once you're down in there it definitely feels that way. It's just not a good area for second-guessing. IMO the bushwhacks can be very tiring, though somewhat short...i.e. you're not pushing/crawling for 4 hours like Allen to Redfield. Anyway, once you're there, the slab is very exposed as well. All that said, it's incredibly beautiful and dramatic down there; worth the effort if you can do it safely.
    I hear that completely. I've done some hefty whacks before, but none of them were very long, too they weren't very remote, aside from the one I took to get to the TN slide from Gothics north face. Some of them were very discouraging, the majority of these being in the winter. But yes, the longer whacks are in my sights, but I do want to be sure that I am ready for them before I tackle them.


    FTR - I've whacked from the top of the new and improved Cascade slide both right and left, and in the snow. Going left I hit a lot of spruce which was tough, going right I saw a lot more grass and birch before the summit rock started popping up. I mentioned the whack from Gothics NF to the TN slide. I've done that three times, twice in some snow. It wasn't a long one, but it was discouraging with the winter gear. The most recent whack was from the broad right turn that takes you to the Tulip slide on Giant. It was a mistake on my part, but going back over that shoulder after gaining significant elevation to the correct drain was pretty tiring. There was lots of blow-down (which worked well as a bridges a few times), but it was thick. I do see more of this in my future though.

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  • mudrat
    replied
    Originally posted by JZ Here View Post
    I'm not totally comfortable with bushwhacking right now so I figured I would gather as much info on this route as possible since it seems like something I would like to undertake someday.
    I always try to personally err on the safe side of things when I'm out in the backcountry though it may not always appear that way based on what I throw together for climbs . I didn't head for Basin until a few years after I started my slide climbing adventures, once I was really comfortable in my navigation and confidence on open rock w/o protection. If you're not comfy bushwhacking at the moment, I'd really recommend hitting some of the closer slides to start with, ones with bushwhacks involved, to really get the feel of being off the trail and dealing with the obstacles (hidden ledges, sod-holes, mossy slab, blowdown in thick growth etc.). Or you could explore Basin with someone familiar with it.

    Speaking of obstacles, I fell into a waist deep sodhole a couple weeks ago while in the drainage...not really uncommon. I just didn't like the feeling when the boulders behind my leg shifted while I was still in the hole. In 2009 I camped in a similarly sodhole-ridden area with large blocks of stone; the holes were over my head in places, but obvious though i didn't fall in them. That particular area was replaced with the runout of the NE Shoulder Slide.

    Basin is quite remote and once you're down in there it definitely feels that way. It's just not a good area for second-guessing. IMO the bushwhacks can be very tiring, though somewhat short...i.e. you're not pushing/crawling for 4 hours like Allen to Redfield. Anyway, once you're there, the slab is very exposed as well. All that said, it's incredibly beautiful and dramatic down there; worth the effort if you can do it safely.

    Leave a comment:


  • JZ Here
    replied
    Originally posted by mudrat View Post
    I didn't have time to be that creative this time around, been busy writing and planning the next outing
    Gotcha.. way to be up there! Keep it up!

    Leave a comment:


  • JZ Here
    replied
    Originally posted by nangaparbat View Post
    Go see for yourself, there is plenty of potential on this face. A yellow line , will only be an approximation.

    I...
    "If you need , to be taken by the hand over there, it will be too hard."

    Was this the original quote? It's what showed up in my e-mail notification. Seems a little sarcastic (not that I don't enjoy sarcasm), but in a brash sense. I understand that the yellow line would only be an approximation, but that was the kind of "specific" that I was wondering about. I'm not totally comfortable with bushwhacking right now so I figured I would gather as much info on this route as possible since it seems like something I would like to undertake someday.

    Leave a comment:


  • mudrat
    replied
    Originally posted by JZ Here View Post
    The SE slab... the Amphitheatre? I gotcha for the most part. I was hoping for one of those photos with a yellow line on it.

    I didn't have time to be that creative this time around, been busy writing and planning the next outing

    Leave a comment:


  • mudrat
    replied
    Originally posted by JZ Here View Post
    The SE slab... the Amphitheatre? I gotcha for the most part. I was hoping for one of those photos with a yellow line on it.

    No the se explosure slab is the one with the clean run on it directly below the summit. it's adjacent to the east face (right if looking at it).

    Leave a comment:


  • nangaparbat
    replied
    Originally posted by JZ Here View Post
    The SE slab... the Amphitheatre? I gotcha for the most part. I was hoping for one of those photos with a yellow line on it.

    Go see for yourself, there is plenty of potential on this face. A yellow line , will only be an approximation.

    I

    Leave a comment:


  • JZ Here
    replied
    Originally posted by mudrat View Post
    Like this?

    Route:
    Garden to Orebed Lean-to, Start slide on runout and follow up to top of new exposure, bushwhack sw to saddleback summit, descend SB, climb Basin's ne shoulder, bushwhack down col b/t Basin NE shoulder and summit proper to mid section of East Face slab, climb to top trigger point (flat top on it), descend diagonally to base of SE slab of Basin, climb and bushwhack to summit, bushwhack to NW shoulder on N side, descend basin brook slide to trail, follow trail to JBL and Garden...collapse.
    The SE slab... the Amphitheatre? I gotcha for the most part. I was hoping for one of those photos with a yellow line on it.

    Leave a comment:


  • nangaparbat
    replied
    Originally posted by gregpphoto View Post
    WOW! Amazing stuff. Is the Saddleback NE slide the same as this one or is it a different slide? http://adirondackexplorer.org/out-ta...dleback-slide/
    Same one, ascentionist who made the FA in its present form named it Khyber, which is the name of the dog who made the ascent.

    Leave a comment:


  • mudrat
    replied
    Originally posted by JZ Here View Post
    Can you post here the route from the day like you did on your Great DeRanged Traverse report? I'm can imagine one from what I just read and by using Google Earth, but I was wondering more about the specifics after Saddleback and also after the East face of Basin.
    Like this?

    Route:
    Garden to Orebed Lean-to, Start slide on runout and follow up to top of new exposure, bushwhack sw to saddleback summit, descend SB, climb Basin's ne shoulder, bushwhack down col b/t Basin NE shoulder and summit proper to mid section of East Face slab, climb to top trigger point (flat top on it), descend diagonally to base of SE slab of Basin, climb and bushwhack to summit, bushwhack to NW shoulder on N side, descend basin brook slide to trail, follow trail to JBL and Garden...collapse.

    Leave a comment:


  • mudrat
    replied
    Originally posted by gregpphoto View Post
    WOW! Amazing stuff. Is the Saddleback NE slide the same as this one or is it a different slide? http://adirondackexplorer.org/out-ta...dleback-slide/
    Thanks. Yes, that's the slide. It enlarged (from a higher trigger point) the "Back in the Saddle" slide that's been there for years. I just tend to call the slides by their dominant exposure many times.

    Leave a comment:


  • JZ Here
    replied
    Route info?

    Can you post here the route from the day like you did on your Great DeRanged Traverse report? I'm can imagine one from what I just read and by using Google Earth, but I was wondering more about the specifics after Saddleback and also after the East face of Basin.

    Leave a comment:


  • gregpphoto
    replied
    WOW! Amazing stuff. Is the Saddleback NE slide the same as this one or is it a different slide? http://adirondackexplorer.org/out-ta...dleback-slide/

    Leave a comment:


  • JZ Here
    replied
    What's this? Another great report from Mudrat? Hard to believe!



    Props! This was very inspiring!

    Leave a comment:


  • MtnManJohn
    replied
    Originally posted by mudrat View Post
    Cool, he's a good guy and fun to climb with!

    They're different. Cascade's 2nd to last pitch is much smoother and involves more smearing while its headwall has a bit more grain. Basin is filled with handholds and divots as well as very crystalline (as long as you're not on the left-hand side with all the moss). Basin also has continued sets of steeper pitches (than Cascade) with extended exposure below.
    Thanks for the feedback! The pitches on Cascade were fun going up (and the 5.10 Guide Tennies did a good job). I'm looking forward to opps to hiking with AW in the future.

    Leave a comment:

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