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  • Guidebook

    Hello All,

    I read a trip report somewhere about a 5th class climb on Noonmark. This has bothered me because I checked my ADK Guidebook and my "Exploring the 46 High Peaks" and can not find anything about a 5th class on Noonmark.

    I submit this thread with several questions. Is there a guidebook of 5th class climbs in/on the High Peaks? Is there a guidebook for slide climbers/skiers? Is slide climbing/skiing and 5th class routes on the High Peaks more of a result of exploring them and finding them on your own?

    Thanks for any help and suggestions..


  • #2
    Mike- There are several fifth class climbs on the summit crag of Noonmark and they are DEEEELIGHTFUL climbs in a fantastic setting. They are all about 90 feet and range in difficulty from 5.4 to 5.8. There is a route up there called "The Weisner Route" which is one of the most fun single pitch 5.8's I've ever done. You have to bust out every kind of climbing technique on it. Jug hauling, stemming, jamming, laybacking, slab- it's got it all, plus a great setting. No one has been able to answer for me on which trip to the Adirondacks Fritz Weisner first did that route. If it was his first trip, then, that 5.8 could have been the single hardest route in the country at the time.

    If you go up there, a standard rack of cams up to a number 3 camalot, set and a half of wired nuts, and some hexes are all you will need. One rope is adequate. Top roping there is kind of weird because the anchors will be pretty far back from the lip of the cliff- so- if top roping is on the menu- you might wish to bring a 50 foot piece of static line.

    Anyway, you're not looking in the right place. You want to get this book:

    It is the current guide to rock climbing in the region. Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas are working on a new guide to rock climbing in the area (

    Having said that, there ain't too much detailed route description offered up. The author tells you roughly how to get where you need to be, the quality, gear, and that's about it. It's very much about figuring out things for yourself.

    Ed Palen at Rock and River is an excellent resource about high peaks climbs and loves to show pictures of them and talk about them.
    Last edited by Vona; 06-20-2006, 08:06 PM.


    • #3
      New book on ADK slides:


      • #4
        Originally posted by adkh2o
        Has anyone seen the book? I wonder if it is just photos showing the slides from the air or if it also describes how to get to them and how to climb them, such as where the steepest pitches are and other hints.


        • #5
          Well, well. Looks like someone beat me to the punch.

          I think my book is aimed at a broader public. This one looks like it's directed towards a harder core clientele, climbers and BC skiiers. Still, I doubt there is room in the microscopic ADK slide climbing market for 2 books.

          I'm going to pick up a copy next week.


          • #6
            My name is Drew Haas and I'm the Author/Photographer/Publisher of
            The Adirondack Slide Guide. This book is a collection of aerial photographs of the High Peaks Region. The Guide is 48 pages in 10x8 format. It contains 37 pages of labled photographs. There are no descriptions of how to locate the listed slides/faces/gullies. It is ment to be used as a tool along with a map and compass to route find, create objectives and to explore the Adk backcountry. Over 70 different slides gullies and faces are labled. The guide cover the Macintyre range, great range, Dix wilderness, Giant wilderness and Whiteface. It is a useful tool for slide hikers, mountaineers and BC skiiers.

            It retails for $14.95 and can be found in various stores in the region
            In LP you can find it at High Peaks Cyclery, Lake Placid Mountaineering and The Bookstore Plus. It is also available at the
            and The Outdoor Gear Exchange( in Burlington.
            It is available directly from me at [url][/url

            a short review can be found on

            I hope that answers some of your questions.

            Drew Haas
            Last edited by Dacksdescents; 07-21-2006, 08:54 AM.


            • #7
              Drew-I checked out the book the other day in the Mountaineer. I knew there were a ton of slides out there and I've only scratched the surface.

              Nice looking book. Good luck with it.
              "Woods are not like other spaces.Their trees surround you, loom over you, press in from all sides.Woods choke off views and leave you muddled and without bearings.They make you feel small a confused and vulnerable.Stand in a desert or prairie and you know you are in a big place.Stand in a woods and you only sense it.They are a vast, featureless nowhere.And they are alive."Bill Bryson"