ADKHighPeaks  
Forum Rules Statement of Purpose Membership Disclaimer Site History
Adkhighpeaks Foundation Donations and Online Store Adkhighpeaks Wiki visit ADKForum.com

Go Back   ADKHighPeaks > Adirondack Slides > Slide Climbing Trip Reports
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-16-2012, 04:42 PM   #1
mudrat
Slide Junkie, 46R 5430W
 
mudrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: ADK Mountains
Posts: 1,175
I am a 46er I cross post at ADKForum
Saddleback NE, Basin East, Basin SE, Basin Brook Slides...A Day in the Heat

Disclaimer

PICTURES

A long awaited trip up Basin got delayed on July 4th, rescheduled for this past Saturday, the 14th…a hot day to say the least. I knew it would be like climbing on a gridiron, but didn’t want to cancel again. Rico (walkswithblackflies), Alan Wechsler and I hit a nice route up Saddleback’s new NE slide. The next target was Basin’s Eastern Face via the col between the summit and northeastern shoulder. The third slide in line was the finger of new exposure running directly toward the summit. A descent down Basin Brook Slide would then lead us to the trail and back to the Garden.

Starting as 6:50 a.m., we began the hike in humid conditions, but great company. An hour and one half later we were sitting on the slab just below Orebed Lean-to. This beautiful slab started off a runout that leads directly to the largest track of the new array on Saddleback, as I’m sure everyone knows. Nice piles of rubble and pools led up to the base of the slide. An intrusion of iron-rich rock sent Rico’s compass pointing in a new direction every few steps...not that a compass was needed, but it was fun to watch it switch directions.

Saddleback NE Slide:
There were a few climbers ahead of us and as we reached the first pitch of the slide; we winced as a grapefruit sized rock went wizzing between our skulls and Gothics. It was a veritable playground with easy and hard routes. Once at the top, out of the stepped fracture that leads directly to the highest point, we had a nice chance to relax and enjoy the views. Some people were making slow but steady progress up Gothics’ cable route. Once in motion again in the balsam, I led us through the woods veering right around the two ledges en route to the summit and popped out in the stunted growth for a nice view of the Chicken Coop route to the Basin's ridge with its thin slides.



By the time we were at the Saddleback/Basin col, things were heating up. I took off my shirt, unhappy that I couldn’t unzip my skin to get even cooler. Darn heat! A bloodthirsty horde of blackflies joined us somewhere near the Basin/NE shoulder col. I don’t remember them following us into the trees, however, but then again the evergreens were bloodthirsty as well. The sod-hole that swallowed me to the waist briefly took my mind off the trees…and blackflies from earlier. As the col expanded in width, I panned right toward the slabs on the SE flank of Basin. Rico and Alan followed on their own routes; Rico eventually got out on the slab a bit lower when it leveled slightly and Alan followed the drainage into the soft ferns that eventually dominated the area. They also had the effect of covering the drainage stream, a rocky course down the center.

Basin East Face:
As I scrambled up the adjacent ledges of the false summit to shoot pics of the east face, Rico and Alan enjoyed a nice break under the shrubs. We later found it to be the hottest, most bug-infested area of the entire face. 15 feet higher, the breeze alleviated both. Now in rock climbing shoes, we decided to climb directly up the center of the face to the highest point. Incredible (and hot) sun-warmed rock greeted our every move. The pitches were steep, but broken by areas of lesser pitch or small shelves that allowed a solid stance every so often. Three quarters of the way up, we heard a rumble over Lake Champlain. The anvil slowly developed atop the storm as we reached the highest point…typical timing that cut our break short.



Next on the list was a diagonal descent of the face to near the base of the ‘finger’ of lighter stone leading to the summit. That was a bit tricky as the steeper bulges seemed to pull me forward. I caught my toe once on a more level portion, tripped slightly and envisioned myself bouncing 900 feet down to the base…and grew more careful, opting to descend some of the face backward using hand and footholds. All came out well in the end as I traversed the (climber’s right) mossy edge of the main face and transitioned to the adjoining slab.

Basin SE Slide Track:
The first pitches were a mixture of clean slab and scoured moss followed by other pitches of varying cleanliness. Grass and fern intersected every now and again until we reached the final sections which broke the 45 degree mark. A short bushwhack led to another newly exposed layers of stone just feet to the right of ones I’d climbed in 2009. The bushwhack to the summit was quick but tedious. It was now late afternoon (5:00 p.m.) and "only" 90F by Rico’s thermometer. I’d gone through 5L of water and could now stop rationing at least…our next water was just ahead after a “short” patch of trees.


Basin Brook Slide:
For the fourth bushwhack we locked our sites in on the NW summit, aiming to the right of its cliffs over an intermediate bump. This segment would be thick, ledge ridden, sod-hole infested and downright ornery…just what I expected. 30 minutes later, we were perched upon the Basin Brook Slide. Alan was remarkably clean compared to Rico and I, with less scratches and an untorn shirt. The blackflies were still in ‘bite-mode’.

Basin Brook Slide’s near vertical headwall has a precarious herd path on the climber’s left which we descended carefully to the still relatively steep upper pitches. They were as I remember, rough with a bit of rubble strewn about them. Descending was, at this point tiring, but not as much as the streambed would be. We day-dreamed of water as we ticked away the descent to the rubbly curve leading into the drainage. Irene’s high water line could be seen on the edges. Boulders and intermittent blowdown sucked more energy as the sun angled further in the sky. We heard water, though, which brightened our day. Rico’s steripen quickly replenished our supply at a quaint cascade amongst the boulders.

The roughly half mile trek to the trail seemed to go on forever. It was really a continual descent of bouldering it seemed. Eventually we came to a deep gorge and bushwhacked to the more level if not rubbly drainage beyond and finally to the trail at around 7:00 p.m. The rest of the way consisted of a few breaks: Bushnell falls, jbl and along the path. A saw-whet owl berated us just moments before our exit at 10:50 p.m. What a day!

I wrote this report quickly and without alot of route detail, but I need to say that the Basin Face is a serious outing. It is remote and exposed; a slip and tumble would be life-threatening if not fatal. Getting there is also huge challenge from any direction.
__________________
May your ambition for the goal allow you to be a student of the journey.

http://www.mackenziefamily.com/46/46r.html

Last edited by mudrat; 01-17-2013 at 05:46 PM.
mudrat is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to mudrat For This Useful Post:
jelaxbroc (07-18-2012), JZ Here (07-23-2012), krummholz (07-16-2012), masshysteria (07-16-2012), moosebeware (07-16-2013), MtnManJohn (07-18-2012), PA Ridgerunner (07-18-2012), ScAtTeRbOnE (07-16-2012)
Old 07-16-2012, 07:38 PM   #2
nangaparbat
Commander
 
nangaparbat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: On a mountain
Posts: 504
Basin East face is truly a gem, but as mentioned, it is a serious outing, just to get there is an adventure by itself.

The NE slide on Saddleback is going to be a classic, great rocks, great view. Well I still think that you are very determined, to get there in the scorching heat.....

I am sure it is a day that you will not forget soon.

I will go back on the East face, many good lines left to do.

Congrat to all three of you.
nangaparbat is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to nangaparbat For This Useful Post:
mudrat (07-16-2012)
Old 07-16-2012, 09:04 PM   #3
krummholz
Consultant
 
krummholz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ithaca
Posts: 197
I am a 46er
That certainly has the elements of another trademark Mudrat route: ambitious, unique, and agonizing in a the best possible way. I think I might now be obligated to add the new Saddleback slide to next Monday's itinerary! Very impressive

Another amazing, steep day! You could've fried your lunch on that face from the looks of it. Thanks for recounting your adventure for us.
krummholz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2012, 09:50 PM   #4
mudrat
Slide Junkie, 46R 5430W
 
mudrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: ADK Mountains
Posts: 1,175
I am a 46er I cross post at ADKForum
Quote:
Originally Posted by krummholz View Post
That certainly has the elements of another trademark Mudrat route: ambitious, unique, and agonizing in a the best possible way. I think I might now be obligated to add the new Saddleback slide to next Monday's itinerary! Very impressive

Another amazing, steep day! You could've fried your lunch on that face from the looks of it. Thanks for recounting your adventure for us.
Thanks.
...and fun. The hottest long day I've taken. I'm a creature of the cold now! If you're a slide climber then the slide is a really good route that basically takes the hypotenuse of the triangle to the summit, as opposed to the trails. You'll love them both. Be careful on the E face
__________________
May your ambition for the goal allow you to be a student of the journey.

http://www.mackenziefamily.com/46/46r.html
mudrat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2012, 11:43 PM   #5
krummholz
Consultant
 
krummholz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ithaca
Posts: 197
I am a 46er
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudrat View Post
Thanks.
...and fun. The hottest long day I've taken. I'm a creature of the cold now! If you're a slide climber then the slide is a really good route that basically takes the hypotenuse of the triangle to the summit, as opposed to the trails. You'll love them both. Be careful on the E face
You said "hypotenuse." nice.

It's good to get more info on that narrow slide. I've been looking forward to the E. Face for a while. Hopefully to predicted temps in the 70's will hold up.
krummholz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 01:40 PM   #6
AdkWalrus
Jr. Commander
 
AdkWalrus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Wallingford, Conn. Avatar: Checking the Arsenal score on South Twin
Posts: 488
I am a 46er I cross post at ADKForum
Quote:
Originally Posted by krummholz View Post
You said "hypotenuse." nice.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQHaGhC7C2E

3:45
__________________
46/46, 12/48, 58/115
46-R #6866
AdkWalrus is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to AdkWalrus For This Useful Post:
krummholz (07-18-2012)
Old 07-18-2012, 04:00 PM   #7
MtnManJohn
Never too much mud!
 
MtnManJohn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,045
I am a 46er I am a Catskill 35er I cross post at ADKForum
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudrat View Post
PICTURES

...
I wrote this report quickly and without alot of route detail, but I need to say that the Basin Face is a serious outing. It is remote and exposed; a slip and tumble would be life-threatening if not fatal. Getting there is also huge challenge from any direction.
Great TR and photos I met and spoke with Alan W. last night and chatted about some of your adventures.

Question: I have approach shoes (5.10 GT's) and ascended the 2 slabs comprising the headwall at the top of the Cascade slide (fun). Done a few other slides, too. How would you compare the slabs on the Basin Face to the Cascade headwall mentioned in terms of difficulty?
MtnManJohn is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 04:09 PM   #8
mudrat
Slide Junkie, 46R 5430W
 
mudrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: ADK Mountains
Posts: 1,175
I am a 46er I cross post at ADKForum
Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnManJohn View Post
Great TR and photos I met and spoke with Alan W. last night and chatted about some of your adventures.

Question: I have approach shoes (5.10 GT's) and ascended the 2 slabs comprising the headwall at the top of the Cascade slide (fun). Done a few other slides, too. How would you compare the slabs on the Basin Face to the Cascade headwall mentioned in terms of difficulty?
Cool, he's a good guy and fun to climb with!

They're different. Cascade's 2nd to last pitch is much smoother and involves more smearing while its headwall has a bit more grain. Basin is filled with handholds and divots as well as very crystalline (as long as you're not on the left-hand side with all the moss). Basin also has continued sets of steeper pitches (than Cascade) with extended exposure below.
__________________
May your ambition for the goal allow you to be a student of the journey.

http://www.mackenziefamily.com/46/46r.html
mudrat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 04:14 PM   #9
MtnManJohn
Never too much mud!
 
MtnManJohn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,045
I am a 46er I am a Catskill 35er I cross post at ADKForum
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudrat View Post
Cool, he's a good guy and fun to climb with!

They're different. Cascade's 2nd to last pitch is much smoother and involves more smearing while its headwall has a bit more grain. Basin is filled with handholds and divots as well as very crystalline (as long as you're not on the left-hand side with all the moss). Basin also has continued sets of steeper pitches (than Cascade) with extended exposure below.
Thanks for the feedback! The pitches on Cascade were fun going up (and the 5.10 Guide Tennies did a good job). I'm looking forward to opps to hiking with AW in the future.
MtnManJohn is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2012, 10:20 PM   #10
JZ Here
Dude
 
JZ Here's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Schenectady, NY
Posts: 183
What's this? Another great report from Mudrat? Hard to believe!



Props! This was very inspiring!
__________________
"Most often, my weeks are countdowns to the days I spend in the Adirondacks." - JZ

http://www.facebook.com/justin.zaremski

http://www.flickr.com/photos/justinzaremski/
JZ Here is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to JZ Here For This Useful Post:
mudrat (07-23-2012)
Old 07-26-2012, 05:52 PM   #11
gregpphoto
Barger
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 152
WOW! Amazing stuff. Is the Saddleback NE slide the same as this one or is it a different slide? http://adirondackexplorer.org/out-ta...dleback-slide/
__________________
"In truth, the forest hears each sound, each blade of grass as it lies down. The world requires no audience, no witnesses, no witnesses!" Conor Oberst.
gregpphoto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 06:16 PM   #12
JZ Here
Dude
 
JZ Here's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Schenectady, NY
Posts: 183
Route info?

Can you post here the route from the day like you did on your Great DeRanged Traverse report? I'm can imagine one from what I just read and by using Google Earth, but I was wondering more about the specifics after Saddleback and also after the East face of Basin.
__________________
"Most often, my weeks are countdowns to the days I spend in the Adirondacks." - JZ

http://www.facebook.com/justin.zaremski

http://www.flickr.com/photos/justinzaremski/
JZ Here is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 06:53 PM   #13
mudrat
Slide Junkie, 46R 5430W
 
mudrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: ADK Mountains
Posts: 1,175
I am a 46er I cross post at ADKForum
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregpphoto View Post
WOW! Amazing stuff. Is the Saddleback NE slide the same as this one or is it a different slide? http://adirondackexplorer.org/out-ta...dleback-slide/
Thanks. Yes, that's the slide. It enlarged (from a higher trigger point) the "Back in the Saddle" slide that's been there for years. I just tend to call the slides by their dominant exposure many times.
__________________
May your ambition for the goal allow you to be a student of the journey.

http://www.mackenziefamily.com/46/46r.html
mudrat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 06:58 PM   #14
mudrat
Slide Junkie, 46R 5430W
 
mudrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: ADK Mountains
Posts: 1,175
I am a 46er I cross post at ADKForum
Quote:
Originally Posted by JZ Here View Post
Can you post here the route from the day like you did on your Great DeRanged Traverse report? I'm can imagine one from what I just read and by using Google Earth, but I was wondering more about the specifics after Saddleback and also after the East face of Basin.
Like this?

Route:
Garden to Orebed Lean-to, Start slide on runout and follow up to top of new exposure, bushwhack sw to saddleback summit, descend SB, climb Basin's ne shoulder, bushwhack down col b/t Basin NE shoulder and summit proper to mid section of East Face slab, climb to top trigger point (flat top on it), descend diagonally to base of SE slab of Basin, climb and bushwhack to summit, bushwhack to NW shoulder on N side, descend basin brook slide to trail, follow trail to JBL and Garden...collapse.
__________________
May your ambition for the goal allow you to be a student of the journey.

http://www.mackenziefamily.com/46/46r.html
mudrat is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to mudrat For This Useful Post:
JZ Here (07-27-2012)
Old 07-26-2012, 08:30 PM   #15
nangaparbat
Commander
 
nangaparbat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: On a mountain
Posts: 504
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregpphoto View Post
WOW! Amazing stuff. Is the Saddleback NE slide the same as this one or is it a different slide? http://adirondackexplorer.org/out-ta...dleback-slide/
Same one, ascentionist who made the FA in its present form named it Khyber, which is the name of the dog who made the ascent.
nangaparbat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 08:39 PM   #16
JZ Here
Dude
 
JZ Here's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Schenectady, NY
Posts: 183
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudrat View Post
Like this?

Route:
Garden to Orebed Lean-to, Start slide on runout and follow up to top of new exposure, bushwhack sw to saddleback summit, descend SB, climb Basin's ne shoulder, bushwhack down col b/t Basin NE shoulder and summit proper to mid section of East Face slab, climb to top trigger point (flat top on it), descend diagonally to base of SE slab of Basin, climb and bushwhack to summit, bushwhack to NW shoulder on N side, descend basin brook slide to trail, follow trail to JBL and Garden...collapse.
The SE slab... the Amphitheatre? I gotcha for the most part. I was hoping for one of those photos with a yellow line on it.

__________________
"Most often, my weeks are countdowns to the days I spend in the Adirondacks." - JZ

http://www.facebook.com/justin.zaremski

http://www.flickr.com/photos/justinzaremski/
JZ Here is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 10:17 PM   #17
nangaparbat
Commander
 
nangaparbat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: On a mountain
Posts: 504
Quote:
Originally Posted by JZ Here View Post
The SE slab... the Amphitheatre? I gotcha for the most part. I was hoping for one of those photos with a yellow line on it.

Go see for yourself, there is plenty of potential on this face. A yellow line , will only be an approximation.

I
nangaparbat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 10:20 PM   #18
mudrat
Slide Junkie, 46R 5430W
 
mudrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: ADK Mountains
Posts: 1,175
I am a 46er I cross post at ADKForum
Quote:
Originally Posted by JZ Here View Post
The SE slab... the Amphitheatre? I gotcha for the most part. I was hoping for one of those photos with a yellow line on it.

No the se explosure slab is the one with the clean run on it directly below the summit. it's adjacent to the east face (right if looking at it).
__________________
May your ambition for the goal allow you to be a student of the journey.

http://www.mackenziefamily.com/46/46r.html
mudrat is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to mudrat For This Useful Post:
JZ Here (07-27-2012)
Old 07-26-2012, 10:37 PM   #19
mudrat
Slide Junkie, 46R 5430W
 
mudrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: ADK Mountains
Posts: 1,175
I am a 46er I cross post at ADKForum
Quote:
Originally Posted by JZ Here View Post
The SE slab... the Amphitheatre? I gotcha for the most part. I was hoping for one of those photos with a yellow line on it.

I didn't have time to be that creative this time around, been busy writing and planning the next outing
__________________
May your ambition for the goal allow you to be a student of the journey.

http://www.mackenziefamily.com/46/46r.html
mudrat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2012, 09:14 AM   #20
JZ Here
Dude
 
JZ Here's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Schenectady, NY
Posts: 183
Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by nangaparbat View Post
Go see for yourself, there is plenty of potential on this face. A yellow line , will only be an approximation.

I...
"If you need , to be taken by the hand over there, it will be too hard."

Was this the original quote? It's what showed up in my e-mail notification. Seems a little sarcastic (not that I don't enjoy sarcasm), but in a brash sense. I understand that the yellow line would only be an approximation, but that was the kind of "specific" that I was wondering about. I'm not totally comfortable with bushwhacking right now so I figured I would gather as much info on this route as possible since it seems like something I would like to undertake someday.
__________________
"Most often, my weeks are countdowns to the days I spend in the Adirondacks." - JZ

http://www.facebook.com/justin.zaremski

http://www.flickr.com/photos/justinzaremski/
JZ Here is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:37 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

DISCLAIMER: Use of these forums, and information found herein, is at your own risk. Use of this site by members and non-members alike is only granted by the Adkhighpeaks Foundation provided the terms and conditions found in the FULL DISCLAIMER have been read. Continued use of this site implies that you have read, understood and agree to the terms and conditions of this site. Any questions can be directed to the Administrator of this site.