A Weeks in the Daks, Part 1

[MattC]

This afternoon I returned from a solid week in the Adirondacks, the longest amount of time I've spent there. On Friday 6/30, I headed up right after work, w/ almost every piece of gear I own in the car, and the canoe on the rooftop. I managed to drive all the way to Heart Lake, and arrived just as Teejay, Dick and Joanne were about to go to sleep in thier leanto. After a quick hello, we all turned in. The next AM, we had some conversation over breakfast and headed our separate ways-they for Ampersand, me for Colden.
Great seeing the three of you, sorry it was so brief. Teejay, thanks again for letting me share the LT.

My pack wasn't ready, so I had to futz around for a bit after driving over to the day use lot, and didn't hit the trail until about 8 or so. I went through Avalanche Pass and past Lake Colden and then began up the steep, slabby climb. There was one 20ish guy ahead of me as we neared the top. It was quite windy and the crazy dropoff views down into Avalanche took my breath away. I realize that this trail is by no means really "exposed" by mountaineering standards, but it was enough to make me a little "excited."

The kid and I chatted for a bit at the big boulder and then he took off. I lingered a bit longer and then continued on, hopping up on the little treeded-in spot that seemed to be the highest point. If memory serves, I think there was a bolt-hole there. Anyway, in addition to the views from Colden, I found the alpine flora very nice. Due to the wind, many of the hot pink laurel petals were on the ground, and I also saw Labrador Tea, Sandwort, and the sedge w/ the little cotton fluffs on the ends. On the traverse back, I checked out the little sub-peak (NE Colden?) and stood for a while watching the wind rip across the sedge.

The walk back out was pleasant and uneventful. Lake Arnold wasn't terribly exciting, and in any case the bugs were in charge around there, so I moved on in a hurry. Saw lots of backpackers on their way into various spots as I walked back to Heart Lake. Back at the HPIC, I called my sister, who was vacationing down in Schroon Lake w/ her family, to let her know I was on my way. Had a nice relaxing evening w/ them when I arrived.

Sunday AM I took the canoe out very briefly, but decided it wasn't worth it. Schroon Lake is beautiful, but it's heavily developed, and heavily motorized this time of year. After about 45 minutes, I decided there wasn't enough to see that it was worth dealing w/ motorboat wake. So, I lazed about for a while w/ sis and company. Around noon or so, she and I took her little ones (9-yo niece, 6-yo nephew) up Severance Hill, which was just a short drive away. This little hike was one of the highlights of my whole week.

The trail is well-graded and very well-kept. Starts kind of funny, since you have to walk through culverts underneath the Northway! It occured to me that these culverts are good not only for hikers, but for wildlife as well. Anyhow, the kids seemed to enjoy themselves. My niece kept exclaiming "I'm climbing a mountain!" as she trotted along. My nephew hammed it up a bit, saying "I can't make it, go on w/o me" w/ a huge grin on his face.

There are some nice little lookouts from the top, and they liked that they could see Schroon Lake, and of course pretended they could see "their house" (their vacation rental). The both climbed aboard a blown-down tree to play horsey as well. On the climb back down, I pointed out a Red Eft. My nephew asked if he could throw a pretzle at it! I proceeded to give him the lecture about how it's the wildlife's home, we're only visitors, respect them, blah, blah. His next query was "Can I litter?" at which point I realized he was just yanking my chain. Funny little guy! Meanwhile, my niece kept track of each little streamlet, stating at the end that she had crossed 9 "rivers." Anyway, awesome hike, w/ my favorite people on the planet. Great to see my sis in hiking boots!

Back at the Lake, I made phone contact w/ T-max and Dawn, who had climbed Allen the previous day and were staying in Keene. We made plans to hike Basin and Haystack Monday. Next AM, I rose early and tried to get ready quietly so as to not wake anyone. I drove up to the Garden and hit the trail about 6:45 or so, a little behind Dawn and Terri. I caught up w/ them at JBL and we continued together as far as Slant Rock. At this point Dawn headed for Haystack. She said she would wait for us a while and if she wasn't there she'd see us later back at the TH. Terri and I headed up and over Shorey and then on up to Basin. Tough, fun climb, another amazing alpine summit. Killer views, more lovely flora. We chatted w/ a couple for a few minutes up on top, and had a "small world" moment-it turned out the woman used to live in Tillson, which is about 5 miles from where I live.

After half an hour or so, we headed down to the col, filtered some water and began the climb up towards Little Haystack and finally Haystack. As we traversed over, I was at a loss for words, which is quite rare for me. Those of you who have been there know what I mean. That summit is about as good as it gets in the mountains. Unfortunately, Dawn had already left, but we hung out for about 45 minutes or so. Strangely, there was a Luna Moth, right at the very top of Haystack, in a little crack in the rock.

We eventually headed back, reluctantly. I kept gaping into Panther Gorge as we traveled along. Once we got over the third little knob of the Haystack family, it sunk in that we were staring at the mother of all return schleps-over 8 miles, and it was already late afternoon. We just sucked it up and walked and walked and walked, stopping once for more water. Some other hikers had seen Dawn, and we knew she must be well on her way out.

Back at the Garden, well after 9, no Dawn, but there was a note on Terri's car. Dawn had run into our friends Nancy and Bruce and had gotten a ride down to the Ausable Inn. We headed down the hill exhausted and had a bite and a beer. Poor Dawn and Terri had to drive all the way back home to start packing for their trip out west, but Nancy very graciously helped me out by letting me stay w/ them at Rivermead in Keene, saving me the trouble of heading to Sharp Bridge to get a campsite after dark. I don't believe they use these forums, but anyhow, big shout out to Aunt Nancy and Uncle Bruce-you two are the best!

Tuesday AM, I chatted w/ Nancy and Bruce for a bit-they were considering going rock climbing, but decided to head home. I got breakfast at the Noonmark, came back and got my stuff, bid them farewell and headed back to Heart Lake. Got a campsite, took a little walk around the Heart Lake loop, and otherwise just rested, read and played my weird little guitar. There was a ferocious, but brief little storm about 6, and I stayed in the tent and was probably out cold by 7 or so. I awoke around 10 to distant thunder. Each crash was followed very quickly by the next-way too quickly. I started to realize that it was no thunder, but rather the fireworks display over in Lake Placid! I eventually dozed back off, w/ more big plans for Wednesday...

Matt

[MattC]

Wednesday 7/5, the forecast called for Gray and Skylight, w/ a 50% chance of Marcy. I was sleeping at the trailhead, and I had gotten my pack together the night before, so I finally got that early start I had wanted all week. Real early-I left the trailhead at about 4:15 AM, headlamp a-shinin'. I was able to put it away by 5 or so, as there was enough twilight coming through the hardwoods. Nice to be at Marcy Dam when it's so quiet and crowd-free. I snuck past the sleepy-heads in leantos there and later at Avalanche, and continued on over Lake Arnold and down towards Feldspar. This was now all virgin territory for me. Very nice walking through the boggy areas, although it was a little dicey here and there due to rotted and broken log-walks. Some views of Colden's lower slopes from somewhere along in there.

It was still pretty early when I reached the Feldspar junction, about 7:30 or so. I had a snack and started climbing. It was quite windy all through this entire area. I remembered being on Marcy in March and thinking how the wind seemed to be funneling up through the Opalescent gorge. Anyhow, nice to be climbing in the cool morning air. Once up at Lake Tear, I headed up Gray without hesitation. The trail had a little blowdown early on, but nothing to get too excited about. Piece of cake to follow. The scrambles made things a bit more challenging and interesting. Once on top, I touched the wooden sign, which is pretty low on the tree, and then sat down for about 15 minutes. Gray lived up to it's name-completely socked in. I decided it wasn't worth waiting and headed down. On the descent I could tell that the real ceiling was well above the peaks, but there were these other, lower cloud masses coming in from the west, just high enough to cover summits.

I decided to stay at Lake Tear for a while, because: A) maybe it would clear up, and B) more importantly, I just felt really good to be there in that beautiful, legendary place. I admired the Lake, I napped, I communed w/ nature. After almost an hour of this, I climbed Skylight. I felt great after the rest, and it seemed to be clearing-I could see most of Marcy. Up top, sure enough, my luck held. Yet another absolutely magnificent alpine summit with astonishing views. I had "saved" some nice peaks for this trip. I tossed my rock onto the big pile-I had picked it up along the Feldspar Trail. I stuck to tradition, but wanted to go ultralight, so it was a small rock. Neil would be proud.

Those rocks were also convenient for holding my map down while I identifed peaks. It was another windy one. The lower clouds were moving through fairly fast, and sometimes Marcy was in, sometimes out. Most other peaks were in plain view. After a good 45 minutes or so, back to Four Corners. I decided to go for it. It was getting towards the warm part of the day, and I started to feel all the walking and climbing I had been doing over the last few days. But as the views started to open up, it made it easier to push on.
I topped out, and the summit steward was just arriving as well.

I spent another hour or so chatting w/ her and some other folks, taking in the views, etc. Much different than my first time on Marcy in March. No ice and snow for one thing, and I had the views this time. There were the typically well-intended, underprepared folks up there of course. Sigh. When I moved on, I took my time, trying to draw out my time in that amazing place we call the alpine zone.

I kind of leapfrogged much of the way back w/ a family that was somewhat un-prepared, but seemed to doing okay anyhow-real nice folks anyway. Took the obligatory rest stop at Indian Falls, then headed on in. Another night in the tent at Heart Lake, then breakfast in Placid Thursday AM. After chow, back down to Keene, where I stopped at Rivermead's farm market for some fresh spinach, berries, nuts and maple candy. Nice to be able to get some locally grown Keene produce.

6 High Peaks now climbed, I had satisfied the monkey for the week, so I headed back to Schroon Lake. Had a quick visit w/ the family again, picked up my canoe and headed to Putnam Pond. I wanted a place where I could just do a little paddling on very quiet water. This fit the bill nicely. I got a tent site for two nights and then went right to the Pond to put my boat in.
I paddled all around the main Pond and also the North Pond, stopping at both ends to check out the shoreline trailheads. Very nice place. Saw a couple loons, and also got a close look at a heron fishing. The whole time I was out, only one water-skier, and only for a short time, far away from me. This was an inspiring confidence builder for my paddling-impaired self. So, of course I decided to hike the next day.

Friday AM, I hiked from the trailhead at the North end of the campground, and went through the system of little ponds heading for Treadway Mt. The bugs were the worst I have ever seen, mostly mosquitos. I seldom use deet, but this was a must. I stopped at Rock Pond to slather some on, and ended up watching two loons for 15 minutes or so. Continuing on, I was passed by a woman trail-running, who warned me that her dog would bark at me when I passed. She ran ahead to Clear Pond leanto to control her canine, and I tramped on through. That was the last I saw of human beings until back at the campground.

Treadway is a very cool little mountain w/ lots of open rock along a bone-dry, scrubby ridge. Lots of blueberries, some even ripe already. This area reminded me a lot of the Shawangunks. I even saw a turkey vulture, just to really complete the picture! Great views over into the Greens, up toward the High Peaks, and an intimate look down at Pharoah Lake and over at Pharoah Mountain.

I had already decided to bushwhack down, so I headed basically due west, and trended north whenever necessary to avoid steep dropoffs, of which there were several. It was a piece of cake orienteering, somewhat more challenging traveling, but never too bad. Kind of reminded me of a Catskill bushwhack. I saw a beaver and his lodge near one of the little no-name ponds, which was a nice thing to see. On this same pond, there was a mama water bird and 5 little ones. Not a loon, not sure if they were some kind of duck. Mama had a little crest and she moved her head forward and backward as she swam, which was kinda funny to watch.

Eventually I got back to the trail right near a brook crossing in an old beaver meadow. I had considered going on to Pharoah Lake, but it was hot, I was very tired, and the bugs were just outrageous. I had about six miles back to camp as it was. The highlight of the return was a lovely little waterfall just off the trail-I can't even remember where it was right now, there were so many damn ponds and streams! Another very neat thing about this hike was seeing maybe 4 or 5 different beaver-impacted areas in various stages of flood and recovery. I very much enjoyed my first hike in the Pharoah Wilderness and look forward to returning.

After my last night in the tent, I got up this morning (Saturday) and got ready to head home. I wanted to maybe do one little paddle somewhere on the way. After leaving Putnam Pond, I headed east on 74, getting some nice views of the Champlain Valley and the Greens as I headed down towards Ticonderoga. I had seen a littl place called Jabe Pond near Hague, but as it turns out, the dirt road to it was badly washed out in a couple places, so my Corolla wasn't going to make it. I was in no condition for any kind of carry, so no Jabe Pond.

I headed on down 9N and instead put in at the Northwest Bay Brook access and paddled as far as the Bay, where there were already several waterskiers.
Rather than push my luck, I went over to the bank, tied up the boat and walked a little ways on the blue trail there. I was in the vicinity of Bear Point.
This was a very nice little paddle along the base of the Tongue Range, which I'd like to climb one of these days. I headed back, put the boat back on the car, and finally, reluctantly drove back south of the blue line...

Matt

[Mavs00]

Now that's what I call VACATION.

Very nice read. Thanks.

[Doodles]

Nice trip report Matt.

The Daks seem to be very addicting aren't they? I found myself going up four weekends in a row. I may have to take a break next weekend, the grass is starting to get a little high.

George

[Neil]

Originally Posted by Doodles

I may have to take a break next weekend, the grass is starting to get a little high.

Here's a tip that may help. Don't water the grass.

[adkdremn]

Originally Posted by Neil

Here's a tip that may help. Don't water the grass.

Or....buy a goat.