Gray, Skylight, Redfield, Cliff & Allen - July 18-20

[Pathgrinder]

Okay, no one day marathon here but, three days of great weather made for spectacular viewing from some of the tougher peaks in the 46. On Wednesday, July 18, my friend Dan and I set out for the Adirondacks with full packs and high hopes. Despite allowing three days to conquer five peaks, there was still some significant work to be done. The first thing we encountered was a town highway truck and substantial blowdown from the previous day's storm on the road in to Upper Works. Significant chainsaw and clearing work had been performed and, although the road was still covered with small debris, we were able to make it in to the Calamity Brook Trailhead without delay. A big Thank You to all involved with the clean up.

At 8:30am we signed in at the register and began our journey in to Lake Colden and points beyond. The temperature was in the high 50's and there was a little humidity in the air. After stopping at the Henderson Monument for some pictures and a short rest, we made it to Flowed Lands and the junction with the trail to Hanging Spear Falls a little after 10:30.

About halfway around to the Lake Colden Dam we met a ranger and had a nice 15 minute conversation. I was a little concerned with all the bear incidents I had read about on the forum recently and inquired about them. The ranger indicated that all of the encounters he knew of involved careless behavior which eased my fears somewhat. According to him, the group of young guys that were bothered at the lean-to a couple of weeks ago had initially been more interested in taking pictures of the bear than scaring it away which didn't discourage it from getting closer. Further, people who cooked too late (after 7pm) in the evening were asking for trouble and the now famous yellow bear can incidents were caused by the lids not being put on correctly. I'm just passing along the information here as it was conveyed to us.

Continuing on, we crossed the Lake Colden Dam at 11:15 and began the climb up along the Opalescent. The elevation gain wasn't too steep and the views into the gorge took our minds off the weight on our backs. Having downed a couple 20oz bottles of water and a half a sandwich, I was toting about 30lbs at this point. This was the first time carrying a full pack this year and, so far, it wasn't feeling too bad.

We made it to the Uphill Brook Lean-to at 12:15 to check out the tentsites and unshouldered our packs for the first time all day. It immediately felt like I wasn't attached to the earth and it took a couple minutes before I could walk normally. I never get this feeling when I take off my daypack! Due to the recent rain, the tentsites were a little muddy so, after a short rest, we decided to press on another half mile to the Feldspar Brook Lean-to and tentsites which were in closer proximity to Gray and Skylight anyway.

Around 1pm we arrived at the Feldspar Brook area, did a little exploring and chose a site on the opposite side of the Opalescent from the Lean-to. Setting up our tents, we stashed our gear and, most importantly, got those cumbersome Garcia bear canisters out of our packs. Feeling like we still had some energy left to expend, we set out for Gray and Skylight around 1:40pm.

There was another 1000' of elevation to gain to get to the Lake Tear / Gray herdpath but, even with tired legs, the reduced weight on our backs made the 1.2 miles pass relatively quickly. At 2:25, we began the half mile climb up to the Gray summit which involved a couple of steep rock scrambles. At 3:00, the summit was ours alone and there were nice views of Marcy, Skylight and northwest to Colden and the Macs from the big rock just below the summit. After 10 minutes we began the descent, first passing a single hiker and then a group of three that included a young couple from Seattle.

Once back at Lake Tear of the Clouds, we headed on to Four Corners and Skylight where we had a dinner reservation. The climb up was short and sweet but, after the day's activities my legs were getting a little weary. At 4:15, we made the summit and spent a few minutes exploring before breaking out some sandwiches and eating while taking in the spectacular 360 degree views. We again had the summit all to ourselves for nearly an hour before we decided it was time to head back to camp and settle in for the night.

It took a little over an hour to get back to our tents, returning at 6:15. I strolled over to the Opalescent and took a quick but refreshing dip in the cold waters. By 8pm we were in our tents, pleasantly fatigued after a 13 mile day, roughly 3500' of elevation gain and two peaks under our boots . It was still light enough in my tent to make a few notes about the day's events without a headlamp and look at the map in preparation for Thursday's activities.

Sleep didn't come easy but there were no bear encounters during the night. A small animal was near my tent vestibule at one point so, I made some noise to scare it away. After that I must have drifted off because I don't remember hearing anything but the running waters of Feldspar Brook. Before I knew it the dawn light was brightening and I was stirring around 5:30am.

We packed up, ate some breakfast and got moving around 7:00am. Our plan was to return the half mile to Uphill Brook and drop most of our gear at the Lean-to which is right across from the herdpath to Redfield & Cliff. Two guys had spent the night at the Lean-to and one had already left toward Feldspar Brook. We hung up some damp gear and entered the herd path at 7:30. A last minute change of plan had us heading up Redfield first.

The climb was steady but pleasant, following very closely to Uphill Brook much of the way. When in the brook, there were good views back to Colden and the Macs. Since nothing was too steep, we covered the 1.5 miles in an hour and fifteen minutes, finding the summit at 8:45. A pleasant half hour was spent here, especially on the southern viewpoint just past the summit that offered a great view of Allen, our goal for Friday.

At 9:15 we started our descent, passing a camp group of young teenagers just making their way up and about halfway back to the split to Cliff. They had started very early from the ADK Loj and seemed to be in good spirits. By 10:15 we were making our way up the muddy first section of the Cliff herd path. From all the reports I had expected worse so we were off to a good start, although compared to what we had seen so far on this trip, it wasn't particularly visually appealing.

Soon the cliffs came into view and we were climbing some very steep rock sections. The going was slow and required a little care to avoid a nasty fall. A couple of needed rest stops along the way afforded good views looking back to Marcy with Gray in the foreground. There was a group ahead of us just before the false summit which turned out to be Gray Marshall (from this forum) and family. Little did I know until I saw his trip report that we only live about 30 miles apart in Dutchess County, NY. It's a small world I guess!

We chatted and helped each other with some picture taking on the summit where there was a fine view looking directly north to Colden. It had taken us just under an hour to climb Cliff from the branch in the herdpath to Redfield but, it seemed like a long tough hour and my legs were feeling a little weary. After about 10 minutes, Dan and I began to head down to retrieve our gear and position ourselves for an assault of Allen the next day.

At 12:15 we were back at the Uphill Brook Lean-to where I suggested we eat some lunch and take a break. The mediocre night's sleep combined with the two climbs had me wondering just how far I would be able to go. It felt great to sit for awhile in comfort and take in some nutrients. With a little doubt creeping in and a little Ibuprofen for me, we hoisted our packs at 12:45 and made our way back down to Lake Colden.

The gradual descent and second look at this beautiful area along the Opalescent helped the 1.8 miles pass quickly. By 1:45 we were crossing the dam and climbing the ladder on the other side. The ups and downs as we wound our way around on the Calamity Brook Trail were starting to take their toll so, after signing in at the register at the start of the trail to Hanging Spear, we walked along the shore and took another short rest in the next Lean-to which sits on a knoll on the edge of Flowed Lands.

There was still roughly two miles to get to the campsite before the Allen herdpath so, we grudgingly shouldered our packs and continued to the breached dam where we we crossed the water. Beyond Hanging Spear Falls the trail became more overgrown but still easy to follow. Eventually, there was a section that looked like a re-route as the result of the damage from Irene. Overall, the trail was generally dry, smooth and pleasant which was just what my tired legs needed. Finally, at 3:45, we happened upon the tentsite which was, thankfully, unoccupied.

There has been some discussion on the forum recently about this camping area so I will give a little rundown. Irene left a twisted up mess of trees around the perimeter but the site itself is not muddy and conveniently located by a nice flowing stream. There is easily room for three tents and probably more with some improvisation. The old privy with the tree on top is gone and a new box privy has been installed about 150 yards down the trail toward the Allen herd path. The chainsawed logs have been fashioned into sitting areas and are otherwise useful for keeping stuff off the ground. Overlooking the tangled mess, the scenery and setting is beautiful and we spent a very comfortable night here after watching a gorgeous sunset. I would happily use this site again if the need arose.

The mild humidity was lifting and the temperature dropping during the evening but, the sun was out which enabled us to dry any wet gear and clothes. We ate by the water, got cleaned up and, after exploring a little, crawled into our tents at dusk. I woke very briefly twice, fell immediately back to sleep and had a very restful night. Little did I know this was probably a very good thing based on what lay ahead for the next day.

We were up at 5am and packed by 6:30 on Friday morning when we began our journey to Allen. The air was pleasantly crisp with low humidity and clear skies. It's a little under a mile to the start of the herdpath on an easy section of trail which we covered in about 15 minutes. Walking past the Allen sign, we stashed our gear in the woods by the road before the register and signed in a little after 7:00.

The next couple of miles were up and down with some wet spots and brook crossings but only minimal elevation gain. As we kept trudging toward the summit, we began to wonder how all the remaining elevation could be be crammed into the shrinking distance. Even the beginning of the section up along Allen Brook wasn't all that steep.

We began to encounter our first red slime on the slab rock (which is indeed slippery!) and were glad that it hadn't rained since Tuesday's storm. There was enough dry rock to avoid most of it but, there were a few slips and close calls. At some point someone may have even found the ground but, what happens on Allen stays on Allen so, no details about that here.

As we approached the last mile to the summit there was still approximately 1000' of elevation to gain which was one tough, steep climb. In fact, of the 31 Adirondack High Peaks I have climbed prior to this, I can't think of another one that is harder and many have been easier. Keeping to the left, we crept our way up until the slope mercifully eased. After a short traverse, one last scramble and some blowdown, we finally reached the summit at 9:50am.

It was comfortably warm now and perfectly calm under partly cloudy skies. The two outlooks just off the summit are spectacular and I particularly liked looking right into Panther Gorge from the northern side. The perspective of the High Peaks from Allen is unlike any other and well worth the effort to reach it. We could see most of our conquests from the previous two days and the ground we had covered was laid out in front of us. It had been an incredible three day journey to get here but, we still had some work to do to get back to the car and a pile of gear laying in the woods three miles away and 2000 feet below us.

At 10:35, we tightened our boot laces, lengthened our trekking poles and began the steep descent, carefully negotiating the slippery dirt and loose rock and then the steep slab sections. There was some fancy footwork and an inadvertent spin move when things didn't go quite as planned but, we eventually got down to the easier slope where we encountered our first hikers of the day. They asked questions which we answered, although I'm not sure it put them at ease. Next there was a solo hiker and, finally, a celebrity was encountered when I saw WannabeALjr coming up the trail with young entourage in tow. If I wasn't so fatigued, I would have remembered to tell her how much I enjoy the trip reports on her blog. Knowing they had a long day ahead I didn't want to hold them up so, after a short exchange, we continued in our respective directions.

Signing out at the register at 12:55, we located our gear, loaded our packs, had a snack and found ourselves at the main trail at 1:25. The heavier packs were not welcome and the walk through the overgrown path became a bit of a trudge. Eventually, it became more forest-like and we came to the Opalescent where it was possible to tip-toe across without getting water in your boots although some in the party elected to splash right through. Again, what happens on the way back from Allen....

Once on the other side of the Opalescent, a fairly lengthy road walk is encountered which is somewhat rocky and annoying underfoot when you are tired and have extra weight on your back. Finally, we turned off by Lake Sally and the trail improved a little through a very scenic section. Just past the trail to the Mount Adams lookout tower we passed the caretakers cabin and took a short rest in the shade just around the corner. Some guy was calling for his dog and I had to think if it was on a leash, like it was supposed to be, he wouldn't be in this situation. If we had realized how close we were to the end of the trail, perhaps we wouldn't have even stopped.

When we got to Lake Jimmy, the floating bridge looked to be connected all the way across. Heaving a big sigh of relief, we began the wobbly walk. Just before the other side we realized the last two sections were not really floating. I stepped out on a log in the water to see if it was more stable, slipped and ended up riding the loose plank on my knees as it sank into Lake Jimmy. Jumping up, I somehow scrambled to the final plank and the shore. Amazingly, thanks to my low gaiters, I somehow managed to not get a soaker! The Hudson River crossing went much smoother since it was possible to just rock hop across.

We finally made it to the trailhead at 3:25 and made the short road walk up to the parking lot at the end of the Upper Works road, arriving at the car at 3:40. This was the first backpacking trip to the Dacks that didn't include rain which was a victory in itself. We enjoyed three glorious days and five difficult peaks. We had dinner on Skylight and had endured Cliff & Allen. I can't imagine doing some of these peaks in slippery, wet conditions. I also thought hikers were serious until we stopped at the Golden Corral for dinner on the way home but, that is a trip report in and of itself. Let's just say that I've never had anyone push me out of the way of a summit sign!

[DackerDan]

Thanks - this is encouraging as we plan to hike Sky, Grey, Cliff & Red in about a month. How did the Fledspar Leanto look, was it occupied when you got there? What about the cliff at Cliff, for ADKGurl should I bring rope or can it be managed as just a careful rock scramble for someone vertically challenged?

Thanks

[Pathgrinder]

Originally Posted by DackerDan

Thanks - How did the Fledspar Leanto look, was it occupied when you got there? What about the cliff at Cliff, for ADKGurl should I bring rope or can it be managed as just a careful rock scramble for someone vertically challenged?

Thanks

Both the Feldspar and Uphill Lean-to's looked fine. One person stayed at Feldspar and two at Uphill. The cliffy sections were tough but doable without rope as long as the conditions are dry. Coming down is probably the bigger concern and it would certainly be safer in wet conditions for ADKGurl if you had a rope. I'm not sure I would even want to do it on a wet day but, that's just me. Hopefully, you'll have a nice dry day like we did!

[Trail Boss]

Thanks for the TR! It sounds like you had a great time!

I can attest to Cliff's tricky terrain. I made a hare-brained move during my descent and was memorably rewarded for my lack of attention.

https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=78437...!943&sc=photos

[DackerDan]

Originally Posted by Trail Boss

Thanks for the TR! It sounds like you had a great time!

I can attest to Cliff's tricky terrain. I made a hare-brained move during my descent and was memorably rewarded for my lack of attention.

https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=78437...!943&sc=photos

Ouchy - I had some of those when I rode an ice shoot down LWJ last April - I should of worn gloves.

[JW1069]

Great write-up, Pathgrinder. Sounds like an epic trip you'll be talking about for a while.

Your info about the various lean-tos and camping sites is also really helpful for a similar trip that I'm considering.

[Pathgrinder]

Originally Posted by Trail Boss

I can attest to Cliff's tricky terrain. I made a hare-brained move during my descent and was memorably rewarded for my lack of attention.

https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=78437...!943&sc=photos

As bad as that looks you were probably lucky based on the steepness of some of those rock pitches and the various landing areas!

[jelaxbroc]

Sounds like fun and enjoyable couple of days. I want to make it back up Skylight soon.

[GrayMarshall]

Fantastic trip report, Pathgrinder, and a great pleasure to meet you both on the climb up to Cliff. Thanks for taking our summit photo! You had an exceptional three days of hiking and climbing, and I'm sure that you will now have a new respect for the view out at Allen from the summit of Redfield. That is a tough, slippery climb, and I can't imagine attempting it after the two days and four peaks that you already accomplished.

enjoy,
Marshall and family

[Joe]

Thank you Pathgrinder for an excellent TR. It was both informative and an entertaining read. Thanks also for noting the times along the way. That is very helpful in my planning. I also will be backpacking Redfield and Cliff and Allen and possibly Marshall in two weeks.

[SummitHat]

Thank you for the thoughtful, well-written, engaging account of your expedition! Your report made it easy to retrace the route in the mind's eye, and evoked vivid memories of the challenges and rewards of those peaks. The camping aspect made it all the more interesting. I've only done them as day hikes, so summiting remote Redfield 75 minutes into a hike...

Nicely done.

[veranoenvermont]

Pathgrinder, you are true to your name. Sounds like a very gratifying trip. Thank you for beautifully detailed TR. It was a pleasure to read. I've still got Grey/Sky and Cliff/Red (among others), so your notes are helpful.
veranoenvermont

[Bucknut]

Sounds like an awesome trip! Thanks for documenting the time since I will be completing my 46th on the same route (C-R-G-S) in September.