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Meet Scott Johnston and Steve House.

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  • Meet Scott Johnston and Steve House.

    Scott and Steve will be mentoring this fitness and training forum. As many of you well know, much of the methodology in their recently published training book is readily adaptable to Adirondack hiking.

    Without further ado the following biographies will introduce the forum's new fitness mentors.

    Scott Johnston

    Scott Johnston is a lifelong athlete, climber, and coach. Starting as a very successful swimmer, he earned himself a scholarship to university, but soon found climbing to be more interesting.

    Growing up in Boulder during the 1970′s he partnered with pioneering climbers such as Charlie Fowler, Pete Athens, and Peter Metcalf during a time when chocks were cutting-edge protection and lug soled Krohnhoffer climbing shoes were state of the art. Scott went on to make many significant ascents in Canada (a very early ascent of the Emperor Ridge), Alaska (Second ascent of the Messner Couloir, solo), and Nepal (Third ascent of Ama Dablam). A mechanical engineer by training, Scott worked first in the aerospace industry before starting his own business designing research grade astronomical instrumentation.

    Within Boulder’s tight-knit athletic community, Scott gained notice for his cardiovascular endurance. He was tested and found have an incredibly high VO2max and was quickly recruited into nordic ski racing. After just a few years Scott was skiing at the World Cup level, traveling the world racing on his skis. During this period he ran a successful exotic collector-car restoration and sales business that focused on his favorite automobile, the Porsche 911.

    In 1997 Scott and his wife Midge retired to Mazama Washington. Not one to be idle he soon began coaching the local junior cross-country ski team. In 2003 he officially began coaching Steve House on a daily basis and continues to consult with Steve on his training today. Scott continues to climb actively and establish new routes around his home in the North Cascades. Since co-authoring Training for the New Alpinism, he as begun coaching more climbers. He continues to actively coach three of North America’s top nordic ski athletes and had four athletes competing in the 2014 Winter Olympic Games in Sochi, Russia.

    Steve House

    Steve is a husband, climber, mountain guide, skier, cyclist, traveler, student, eagle scout, and author of two books. He currently lives in Ridgway, Colorado with his wife Eva, although they spend time in Europe and Asia each year. He began climbing with his father as a child, and was introduced to alpine climbing in Slovenia after graduating high school in 1988.

    Steve has been guiding professionally since 1992 and in 1999 he became the ninth American to achieve IFMGA certification. He has guided trips across the globe from Alaska to the Karakoram. He has a long list of first-guided ascents in Alaska: Ham and Eggs Couloir on the Moose’s Tooth, Peak 11,300 via the SW Ridge, the West Face Couloir of Mount Huntington, the Harvard Route of Mount Huntington, and most recently the Moonflower Buttress of Mount Hunter. Steve was also the first non-European guide to lead ascents of the Eiger’s North Face (1938 Route) Grande Jorasses by the Croz Spur, Cima Grande’s North Face (Comici-Demai), Piz Badille’s North Face (Cassin Route), and Triglav’s North Face (Long German Route).

    In addition to being an accomplished guide, Steve is also a world-class climber. Steve’s most famous ascent may be the Central Pillar of the Rupal Face with Vince Anderson but he has compiled an impressive list of first ascents and new routes in Alaska, the Canadian Rockies, the Alps, and the Karakoram. Reinhold Messner has called him “The best high-altitude climber in the world.” Steve is an athlete-ambassador for Patagonia, Grivel, and La Sportiva.
    Project-100: 100 peaks, one winter.

  • #2
    ADK Highpeaks forum members.
    It is great for Neil to allow Steve and me a chance to become involved in some of the discussions here and I look forward to becoming a part of this cool group. I'll check in on this Fitness and Training forum every couple of days. Please feel free to hit me with questions either general or specific. Likewise I think of something thaty seems germane to this group. I 'll start an spontaneous thread.



    • #3
      Thank you both for being here! I'm an "early aspirant" for climbing bigger mountains in the future, so I'm looking forward to seeing what you share with us. It's great to have you!


      • #4
        Neil, a few positive points. First, this is great that you started the "Fitness and Training" sub-forum, which will be quite worthwhile. Second, welcome Steve House and Scott Johnston! I purchased your "Alpinism" book and have been reading it; great info which I've been trying to apply.
        We are closer now than we were five minutes ago


        • #5
          Thanks, Neil ! And thanks X 2 for putting up the link on Fousderando.
          Many mountain fitness lovers will put it to good use, I'm sure !

          P.S. I got the book this past Monday and I am reading away !!!
          'As you go the way of life, you will see a great chasm. Jump. It is not as wide as you think'. From a Native American initiation rite
          'Following our will and wind we may just go where no one's been - Tool
          Lyon Mountain Trail Adopter


          • #6
            Thanks, Scott and Steve, for taking interest in the forum, and to Neil for introducing the forum to TFTNA (which I purchased immediately after Neil's reference in a recent post). I'm sure that the authors' involvement with the forum will be beneficial for everyone.


            • #7
              wow! just found this section of the forum. It will surely be interesting.