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View Full Version : Up the Throat of Mt. Lincoln, White Mountains, NH 12/30/07


leaf
01-01-2008, 10:53 PM
Jason (ferrisjrf) and I met Craig (ElectricMan) at Falling Waters/Old Bridle Path trailhead at 7:00am and around 7:15am we were on our way. Craig led the way up Old Bridle Path, which was well trodden, so we were easily able to bareboot it. Then out of nowhere Craig plunges down the ravine in waist deep snow yelling "Wahoo!" Ok, it didn't go exactly like that, but we did turn off the trail and begin our bushwhack down to the base of the slide about 25-30 minutes into the hike. We did hit some waist deep snow, but the going was fairly easy because it was all downhill. Sooner than I thought, we arrived at the base of the slide. We saw two other guys working their way up behind us in hopes to get in some good ice climbing. We donned our snowshoes after oogling over Craig’s snowshoes (they were pretty) and headed up the slide. The base of the slide was easy to moderate grades and good footing. There were exposed areas of bare rocks with a good amount of water flowing but we were able to avoid it by sticking to the side and occasionally needing to traverse across to the other side. There were a few plunges down to the waist from stepping between hidden boulders and rocks but that only added to the entertainment and it was never a big deal getting out of the newly created holes. We rotated breaking trail to save our energy for the…… headwall (insert dramatic music here). I didn’t do as much breaking trail as I liked on account of my injury to my muscles/tendons in back of my right knee from the Osceolas the day before, and also on account of Jason being an animal.
Slowly the slide steepened and we passed a smaller slide to the right. After a couple of really quick snack breaks, we reached a slide intersection of sorts and turned up the right slide, of course it was the right slide, but it was also the one on the right. Then quickly the slide steepened more. Jason took the lead and I grabbed second place to help create some good steps for Craig. Although his snowshoes were pretty, he struggled a bit getting good purchase. I’m not sure exactly what “purchase” is, but he wasn’t getting it. Not sure if I “buy” that excuse though. (har har)
The conditions on the slide up to the headwall were great. There was only about 4 to 6 inches of fresh powder on consolidated snow pack. We discussed avalanche potential only briefly when we first hit the bottom of the steep and concave shaped part of our climb because conditions didn’t seem ideal for any sort of snowball tumbling. We did, however, stick to the side. Then out of nowhere it seemed, the clouds lifted a bit and there was the headwall. The cliffs and steep ledges were covered with ice and lots of it. I heard a manic laughing at the headwall when it appeared and turned around to see Craig, then I knew for sure I was going to like hiking with this guy. Before we reached the headwall, we switched from snowshoes to crampons and we pulled out our ice axes. Remind me, I need to get a leash for my axe. I have to say, we -really- needed those axes. If I hadn’t bought one Friday night that would have been my turn around point.
Upon closer inspection, the ice on the cliff seemed too thin for any kind of ice climbing, so when the two climbers from the morning caught up to us they opted for a steep ledge off to the right. We attempted to skirt around the wall to the left, but Craig’s scouting revealed that area was much too steep for safe traveling. Farther to the left was snow so deep I would have fallen in over my head. Discouraged, we decided to turn around, but just as I started the first steps back down, the ice climbers yelled over to us from the right saying they saw a good line for us. I was excited and immediately wanted to check it out. I didn’t want to give up! We all agreed we’d check it out and it was looking good. Jason led the way and we started up immediately right of the headwall cliffs in only knee deep snow. At a few points we had to switch from “snow plunge” to “ice hack” with our axes to anchor us as we scurried up the ice. The snow was deep in spots, but it didn’t take up much time getting through it. Jason led the entire way up (because he’s an animal) and picked a really good line. Craig was behind me “wahoo-ing” and my love affair with slides reached a whole new level. Amazingly, the route we took led us right to the summit of Mt. Lincoln and I would never pose for a summit picture with an ice axe, but this time I did.
Our original plan was to hit Lafayette, but we collectively decided to head to Mt. Haystack and down Falling Waters trail. We were tired and totally socked in at the summit. Jason removed his crampons, but Craig and I kept ours on. The conditions on the ridge were definitely barebootable, but the few icy spots I did encounter I was glad to have kept the spikes on. And as if Mother Nature decided to reward us for our efforts, the clouds lifted and the ridge and surrounding mountains revealed themselves. It was a really fantastic ending to a challenging hike! It was great to finally meet you, Craig! Next Stop: North Tripyramid Slide!
Pictures from the hike are at http://hikingleaf.phanfare.com

ferrisjrf
01-02-2008, 12:52 PM
I've definitely got to thank you Courtney for inviting me up to the Whites this past "weekend", and thank Craig for bringing us up the slide. Definitely my most enjoyable hike in the Whites to date.

And I guess I've been called worse things than "animal"...although I won't repeat any of those names here :D.

Jason

Una_dogger
01-02-2008, 05:11 PM
Awesome, you two! Sorry we missed out on hearing all about it in person at Carter Notch!

ElectricMan
01-02-2008, 08:05 PM
Leaf, you are quite the story tellah.

Nice TR and Pics. What happened to all the photos? Only 57 pics? Your going to have to get a helmet cam so you don’t have to fire off pictures constantly.

Seriously though, thanks to you and Jason for making this trip a fun and memorable one. Even if I did have to watch while you lite weights floated like butterflies on the surface while I was struggling to get purchase (http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/purchase). ;)

Because leaf was acting like a paparazzi hiding outside Britney Spear’s hairdresser, I only pulled my camera out a couple of times.

Leaf (http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/39501/2450397480097082051S600x600Q85.jpg)avoiding crevasses, avalanche dangers and man-eating submersed raging rivers.

Leaf and Jason (http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/38771/2412637880097082051S600x600Q85.jpg) finding a snow line past the headwall

Looking back (http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/39115/2079435490097082051S600x600Q85.jpg) at the slide from the top of the headwall

A couple of points of interest for those thinking of this climb.

1. The snow/ice conditions (at the time you go) will make all the difference in the world. We were pretty luck to have good snow conditions.
2. The water was running swiftly down the center of the slide. With the early snowpack and hidden boulders on this slide, route finding was the major obstacle down low.
3. The upper portion of this slide is definitely avalanche territory.
4. We got lucky to find a snow field up the right side of the headwall avoiding all ice. This snow field may not be there when you go.
5. Don’t venture onto this slide in winter without due consideration.

Thanks again you two for the company.