Mt. Rainier

[Micmaster]

In early July Lori and I took a break from our quest to become 46'ers ( Lori at 40, me 46 on Emmons 2 weeks ago ) and spent three great days on Mt. Rainier climbing the DC route during a spell of rare perfect weather. Our first route choice was the less traveled Emmons Glacier route but we couldn't get a spot at the high camp on that route during the dates when we would be there so we picked the most popular route up Rainier, The Disappointment Cleaver route. As an independant team on the mountain our chances of making the summit was statistically only in the 40-50% range to start so having good weather and optimal snow conditions is very important to a successful accent of the mountain. Guided groups to a little better according to records kept by the National Park Service. Reservations for routes from camp Muir ( and other routes ) are reccomended because they only alow 130 people to be camped there at one time, fewer numbers at other locations. Albany to Chicago to Seattle and from the airport we were only 15 minutes from REI where we picked up fuel for our MSR pocket rocket. Driving in the Seattle area wasn't bad, the speed limits are lower making Washington drivers seem a little slow by our standards ( Queensbury drivers ). We just drove toward the mountain with map in hand and by chance found the great town of Puyallup, which is about an hour from the mountain and has plenty of Starbucks and a Cold Stone Creamery ( yum ). So after a good night at the Holiday Inn Express in Puyallup we were checking in with the Park Service rangers at the National Park Service visitors center in Paradise the next day to confirm our plans. With a permit for camping on the glacier and climbing passes in hand we were sorting gear in the parking lot trying to get our packs down to a weight we could carry. From here it is about 4 miles and 4500 vertical feet up to camp Muir where we planned on setting up our tent on the Cowlitz Glacier at 10,000 feet. Starting out at 5500 feet in elevation from the parking lot we hiked through old growth forest and beautiful alpine meadows on marked or obvious trails until we reached the Muir snowfield a couple miles and a few hours later. From here wands and boot tracks on permanent snow mark the way upwards toward Camp Muir where there is a public shelter that bunks 30 and a ranger's cabin. The views of our surroundings as we accended was the most spectacular scenery either of us has ever seen as clouds moved up to us from below to accentuate our feelings of being on a big mountain. If you make the trip don't under estimate the trek to camp Muir because despite being well prepared and fit we were extremely tired and near the wall by the time we got our packs off at camp. We spent a good night at our glacier camp with a rest/acclimating day on our agenda. We spent the following day melting snow for water and drinking as much as possible. Being our first time on a glacier with only eastern rock and ice routes on our climbing resumes we did a dress rehearsal accross part of the Cowlitz making sure we moved efficently together as a roped team ( check ). Later, sitting at our camp taking in the view we watched lethal rock fall come down a gully crossing the route we would be on. I give Lori credit for not wanting to bail tail between the legs right then but neither of had much to say besides noting that the gully will be a place to move quickly through. That night we were up at 11 and moving on the glacier at 12:15 roped about 20-30 feet apart, our Petzl artic headlamps providing enough light as we follwed a boot path accross the Cowlitz towards the death gully and up the rock scree that goes up Cathedral Gap and over to the Ingraham Glacier. There were also other groups up and moving near us including a group of guided Irag war veterans that included a blind climber ( IED victim ) who also summited. Once on the Ingraham Glacier we stopped for water and nutrition and to install fresh batteries in our headlamps. From here we worked our way up and right toward the main feature of the route called the Dissappointment Clever which consists of a 1000 foot plus 40 degree snow and rock rib that seperates the Emmons from the Ingraham Glacier. I was a little concerned about this section because reports and descriptions I had read recently said that a fixed rope was here to aid climbers and that it is a high rock fall danger area. Sure enough I could see the rocks embedded in the snow but the rope wasn't there. Even without the fixed rope aid we did not have any trouble moving accross the loose rock and narrow ledge to access the Cleaver and back to firmer safer terrain. Once on the Cleaver itself we followed wands with red flags through steep rock and snow and eventually to the top of this feature at 12,300 feet where we took in more water and Hammer gel. Here I first noticed the headache associated with altitude but otherwise we both were doing fine and started again, following a traverse line right towards a heavily crevaced area that included a airy/unstable snowbridge crossing. Still in the dark we moved through this area quickly and began gaining elevation up the 30-35 degree slope. At day break we knew we were close to the crater rim but also starting to tire and it just didn't seem like the top would ever come. Near 14,000 feet Lori said she didn't feel good and at that time if she said she wanted to go down I don't think I would have offerred much resistence having also lost some of my drive and energy that I had had much lower down. A few minutes later some climbers coming down from the summit told us we were very close to the top. That's all we needed to hear to get us moving again and moments later we were at the crater rim. Once at the rim in a clear windless blue sky day we made the 15 minute walk accross the crater to the summit 71/2 hours after leaving our high camp. The 4 hour decent back to high camp was uneventful except for the great views of course and we got to look down the cravaces we had crossed in the dark. In retrospect I think that the DC route on Rainier provided a good varied alpine climbing experience for us. Please take a look at the pics.

Mike http://good-times.webshots.com/album/561048106uPwilu?vhost=good-times

[hawk]

Rainier.....

Now THERE's a mountain!!

[billandjudy]

Great stuff--I know there are several here who have done Ranier--Someday maybe for us

[NumNum]

That is quite a fete, the pics are awesome. Sounds like a fair amount of preplanning went into effect. What was your point of contact there? NPS helpful?

[Micmaster]

num num...

Thanks, the pictures came from a compact 6 mp Canon SD 700 IS point and shoot. We came up with the idea about 8-10 months before leaving but really didn't commit until about 2 months prior to leaving when we made reservations with the National Park Service by faxing a reservation request form to them at The Jackson Visitors center in Paradise. They are great people and were really helpful. Attached is the link for that information.

MIke

http://http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/2006/06/mt-rainier-route-conditions-june.html

[Jay H]

Nice trip, A bunch of us climbed the same route 2 years ago, staying at Whitaker's Bunkhouse the night before and also spending a full day at Camp Muir melting water... The RMI groups seem to all leave at 12:30am so if you leave beforehand, you'll beat them to the start and we never had fixed rope on the DC itself. Just wands which were hard to pick out. Nice pictures, we stopped at the Tacoma REI to supply but it's cool as you get closer to the mountain, it seems to follow you everywhere!

Anyway, we had awesome weather too, and it was warm.. 60deg at the summit! You could see the sulfer jets too... and Mt St Helen's spewing smoke and ash.

Thanks for sharing the pictures and report.. :)

BTW, is that a Black Diamond Hilight and a Bibler something or other (toddtex fabric) that is in your shot with your tents?

Jay

[Micmaster]

Jay H,

Thanks. That was our plan also, get going early to beat the traffic. I guess it worked because though there was RMI and Alpine Accents International both leading groups of six, plus others, we never got too close to anyone.

The Bibler Tempest single wall tent is ours and the one person BD tent I think was for a soloist we only saw once briefly the first day there.

MIke

[Antlerpeak]

"Washington drivers seem a little slow by our standards (Queensbury drivers )."

Congrats on climbing the Mountain!!!!

I am not sure about slow driving. Perhaps slower than on the Quaker Road but much more dangerous on I-5. I often wonder if they have driver ed here. They seem to have at least 10 smash ups a day between Seattle and Olympia. In the seven months I have been out here there has not been a day without pileups on the freeway.

The one down side No Stewarts! No Freihoffer chocolate chip cookies. Both of those beat Starbucks

[Jay H]

Jay H,

Thanks. That was our plan also, get going early to beat the traffic. I guess it worked because though there was RMI and Alpine Accents International both leading groups of six, plus others, we never got too close to anyone.

The Bibler Tempest single wall tent is ours and the one person BD tent I think was for a soloist we only saw once briefly the first day there.

MIke


We originally had a 4 person rope team and we left around 12:15, just before the RMI teams. What is really cool is that you don't see a lot of the snow bridges and crevasses and seracs on the climb since it is pitch dark and you're kind of focused on what's in front of you. On the way down, however, it's a different story. Quite breathtaking! One snow bridge on the way down which was scary due to the warmth we had on summit day... And the rocks coming off of Cathedral Gap was impressive... you'd watch rocks falling all day long sitting at Camp Muir.

p.s. how's the damage from the winter's flooding affecting the park road and are they still working on the inn at Paradise?

Jay

[hawk]

p.s. how's the damage from the winter's flooding affecting the park road and are they still working on the inn at Paradise?

Jay

The park road is clear to paradise as of August.

Yes they are still working on the Inn.

Hawk

[Antlerpeak]

The park road is clear to paradise as of August.

Yes they are still working on the Inn.

Hawk

There are three live cams for the area and right now 10/18/07 at 12:38 pm P.D.T. it ain't pretty.

Here is a link. About mid page you will see a list for three cams, Mountain Cam--- Paradise Construction Cam -- and
Paradise Parking Cam. Yesterday there was no snow shown in cams 2 & 3. But today!!!
http://www.nps.gov/mora/

[AlpineSummit]

That is just a stunning piece of real estate!
I can't imagine what it must feel like to be on that mountain.
YeeeOOOOOWzah, what a thrill!

Pardon my ignorance but is that beauty snow-covered all year long?

[Antlerpeak]

That is just a stunning piece of real estate!
I can't imagine what it must feel like to be on that mountain.
YeeeOOOOOWzah, what a thrill!

Pardon my ignorance but is that beauty snow-covered all year long?

Yes it is but snowline varies. Usually in the summer snowline is above 8500 feet, some years lower. Last week you could get up to the summit of 2nd Burroughs Mt, 7700 ( about 1/2 air mile from Ranier) No snow. In fact a bit to the south I went up an unnamed peak near St Helens on 10/14. It was 68 degrees at 5600 feet and no snow could be seen except on Mt Adams and St Helens best guess was snow reached down to somewhere around 7000 feet. It looks like they are getting hit today but you never know how long it lasts. Last week the tv stations were saying freezing level was at 11000 feet and that suddenly dropped to 3500 and a few days ago it went to 8000. So like the Adirondacks you just never know.

[ajtiv]

Great job and a beautiful mountain
I believe Rainier has the highest number of glaciers than any other mountain in the lower 48. Thanks for the webcam link.
The Inn looks like it will be complete by next summer. Last summer they were still in the ground working on footings and foundations.

They must have volunteers like the ADK has for those showers at the HPIC I think they have been working on those for two years also.
Al

[AlpineSummit]

Thanks for that Antlerpeak. Interesting stuff
So, what is the difficulty to climb it?
Meaning, is there a non-technical route where an average joe like meself could climb it?

[hawk]

They must have volunteers like the ADK has for those showers at the HPIC I think they have been working on those for two years also.
Al

I think the Washington trails Association www.wta.org (http://www.wta.org) may have something to do with it.

hawk

[hawk]

Thanks for that Antlerpeak. Interesting stuff
So, what is the difficulty to climb it?
Meaning, is there a non-technical route where an average joe like meself could climb it?

To the top? I think that you should be somewhat experienced or use of of the guide services. You need a climbers permit as well as a backcountry permit if i am not mistaken.

At any rate, it's not something that someone without some climbing experience and equipment should be doing on their own.

Just for consideration, there is the Wonderland Trail which is a 96 mile route around the mountain with some serious ascents. You can do that is sections and there are numerous camping sites. You need a backcountry permit for that as well.

Hawk

[Jay H]

You need a climbing permit above camp muir. Anybody can go to Camp Muir which is like 10.1k' and sled down the snowfield with a garbage bag (saw them!) but anything above Camp Muir is glacier travel so it's not necessary to be taken too lightly. And depending on the conditions, the route, the time of year, if the general travel up the DC route goes up the Ingraham glacier (called the Ingraham direct route), sometimes there is fixed rope to climb. However, our route led us up the Cleaver which is rocks cause it was too late in the season and the ID route was closed.. hence, no fixed rope, so nothing more technical than simple roped travel.

When we did Mt Hood, we didn't even rope up, just from the conditions of the glacier and that we went around the Hogsback and not through the pearly gates... But unless you trust others, we brought rope and all that and were prepared for it, but in the end, it was basically a snow covered hike.

Mt Shasta too, we never roped up...

Jay

[klip59]

Just wondering what do you need to get a climbing permit?

[Jay H]

klip:

http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/wilderness-camping-and-hiking.htm

All the info is there for wilderness camping and climbing permits.

There is a ranger station in the Paradise Inn facility where you pick up your permits before your trip, not sure if it's currently under renovation with the rest of the Inn but I'm sure they have a ranger station there to sign in and pick up the permits and check the climbing conditions on the various routes up to the summit.

Jay

[klip59]

More like a use permit. It sounded to me that you needed some sort of climbing course or test to get a permit.
thank you for the Reply

[hawk]

Just wondering what do you need to get a climbing permit?

$30.00 (Per person) :D

I think you also need the reservation fee whis is $20.00

[hawk]

Let me get out of the way here. Jay and others know more about it then i do.

Sorry

[Micmaster]

More like a use permit. It sounded to me that you needed some sort of climbing course or test to get a permit.
thank you for the Reply

Klip59,

A test or course is not required for a climbing pass for any climb on Rainier, but you should have crevasse rescue knowledge, be able to move efficiently roped together as a team and have basic climbing and self arrest skills. There are not any easy route up Rainier, some like the DC are less technical and easier than others but all routes require roped travel. Lori and I used belays twice on our route, once crossing a steep slope with a large crevasse below and the other time we belayed each other while crossing a narrow thin snowbridge over a crevasse. You also must be aware of all the hazards and danger associated with most routes on Rainier such as rock fall, avalanches, bad weather, altitude illness etc.. Physical conditioning is very important, I think the effort required for our accent was comparable to a half ironman triathlon I did last year.

Mike

[Antlerpeak]

In regards to the permit, others are correct about no testing. But Rainier is a big mountain and can be dangerous. What I am told is R.M.I climbing service provides training before the climb. I have no experience with them this is what I have been told by those who have. Considering a successful hike or climb is confirmed when you have reached your car in one piece, I suggest using somebody like R.M.I. unless you are already well schooled with these skills.

I'd suggest for most hikers a permit to do Mt Saint Helens would be a better choice. Permit is like $20.00 per hiker and only 100 hikers per day are allowed. The Monitor Ridge route is the easiest appx 4 miles one way with 4500 feet ascent. Nothing technical and in late summer there is often no snow to deal with. You can go all the way to the rim and look down into the boiling dome.

[Jay H]

RMI offers various classes and climbs, they are very good. If I remember, they have a couple of different options for the interested climber, a 2 day climb and a 3 day one both usually start with a half day course on the mountain for basic glacier travel skils (roped travel, crevasse rescue, etc).

Since both Mike and I did independant climbs, we both got our own permits and reservations via the ranger station, however, I'm sure RMI does all that for you. Our party took a customized course from RMI and we stayed at Whitaker's Bunkhouse which serves as the base for RMI and is also next to Summit Haus, the gear place there... We had a full day course on various aspects which took place at about 6000ft on a snow covered slope above Paradise...

The rangers who stay at Camp Muir will come around and chat, usually, one to check permits, the other I'm sure is to gauge your party's experience, etc...

Jay

Jay

[leaf]

Nice Report, and Congratulations! I summited Rainier with Alpine Ascents in early August. Which is a company I highly recommend for Rainier - extra day on the mountain, second higher camp on the Ingrahmn. There are three guiding companys allowed to guide Rainier, RMI, IMG, and Alpine Ascents, and yes, they take care of obtaining the climbing permit for you.
We had great weather as well. Walking across that crater after being completely exhausted.. I thought I'd never get to the otherside! Yes, spectacular spectacular. Nothing like hopping over cravasses that are 100 feet deep and that snow bridge, yeah, you didn't really know what was around you until you descended in the daylight. Gratz!!

[Micmaster]

Leaf,

Thanks. We crossed paths with Alpine Accents a few times on the mountain and were very impressed with their operation. The AAI group we saw on the Muir snowfield and later decending the Cleaver was lead by mountaineering great Robert Link. They had the choice campsite on the Ingraham.

Mike