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View Full Version : Harriman SBM end-to-end TR


Iceman
06-01-2006, 05:19 AM
Before I even start this TR let me say that this is not a fun hike. For anyone planning on attempting this, you need some kind of motivation. For me, it was the patch but I had no idea how to get it. My initial plan was overly ambitious. I planned to complete the hike, camp overnight and then hike back but I was not going to go through all that without a patch so I posted a question about the patch on one of these forums and Alistair seemed interested in the hike. This would solve my shuttle problem and I would not have to do the hike twice or camp overnight which would eliminate a lot of pack weight. I had never met Alistair before but we got to know each other through a series of PM’s. My biggest concern was that Alistair would be much faster than me and take off leaving me to hike by myself. Alistair described himself as a slow and steady hiker, but compared to whom, I did not know.

Alistair had asked me how long I thought the hike would take? I responded based on the amount of time it takes for me to do 20 Harriman miles, I expect this 25 mile hike with a total of 5,000 feet elevation gain to take 14.75 hours. When Alistair responded that he thought it could be done in 12 hours, I knew I was in trouble so I packed as if I would be hiking solo. Alistair also asked me to leave some water at the halfway point. When I did this I got bit by a deer tick so for the hike I planned on wearing full tick protection. By this I mean convertible pants and a long sleeve shirt. I do not like using DEET because it is hazardous to my health. So is having a heat stroke but it took me a while to overcome my paranoia. I had planned on doing this hike in April while it was still cool and I was in shape from winter hiking. I am not a warm weather hiker but scheduling of this hike kept getting postponed until after Memorial Day weekend. With a high temp of 85 degrees and 85% humidity expected.

I had scouted the Bear Mountain end the week before and the trail was very wet. I had worn trail runners and slipped several times on the rocks of West Mountain. For the hike I was going to wear my hiking boots which had better traction on the wet stuff. When I put them on, the boot bothered my right ankle. I was nursing a previous injury back to health. Even though my trail runners give less ankle support, I would have to wear them and hope the trail dried out. As a result, my first aid kit would be very extensive and include everything that I would possible need for a sprained ankle.

We started the hike at the Bear Mountain end so that we could get the most elevation change out of the way first. It was 7:30 AM and I already made my first mistake. I tried to keep up with Alistair. By the time we hiked up the initial climb of West Mountain, I was exhausted. By the time I got to the next bump on West Mountain, I was taking 10 steps, resting until my heart rate came down to a more manageable level and then taking ten more steps. Alistair saw that I was having trouble and offered to carry some of my stuff.

Alistair had packed light, 15 pounds compared to my 30. I gave Alistair my first-aid kit, 2 ice packs, water filter, and headlamps with spare batteries, probably about 7 pounds worth of gear. When I reached the next bump, the same thing happened. This time my head was on fire, I was afraid that I was going to have a heat stroke. Lyme disease prevention was no longer a priority, I had to get my core body temperature down so off came the clothing and on went the sun block. I took off my bandana, changed into a cotton t-shirt and converted my long pants into shorts. I felt pretty good going down West Mountain.

By the time we got to the top of Horn Hill, my stomach was feeling queasy and I had lost my appetite. Alistair who was waiting for me at the top noticed that the tube from my 6 liter hydration sack was red and he asked me if I had any straight water with me. I told him that the water was at the halfway point. Alistair offered me some of his water which I gladly accepted. The queasiness went away but only until we started climbing Pingyp Mountain. I’m back to the 10 steps then rest routine so Alistair offered me more water which I gladly accepted. It had been a while since I had eaten anything so I forced down two handfuls of trail-mix. The queasiness went away but I could not force myself to eat any more sugar. This was my second mistake, not bringing any substantial food. Everything I had was sugar, the Gator-Aid, brownies and trail-mix. My body was overloaded with it.

We stopped and had lunch where I stashed the water on Rt. 106. There was also a stream nearby where both Alistair and I decided to cool off. I had a brownie for lunch so Alistair offered me one of his peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. Again, I gladly accepted. This made me thirsty but we had plenty of water, I had stashed 3 gallons because Alistair had said he was bringing a friend. His friend didn’t show up for the hike. I gave Alistair some of my Gator-Aid and filled my 6 liter hydration sack with water. Even though I must have drank about 8 liters of fluid by now, I still did not have the urge to go to the bathroom.

At lunch, Alistair asked me if I wanted to continue. He said that I could walk on the road and try to get a ride back to the Bear Mountain Inn. Since most of the major climbing was now behind us, I decided to continue on under the shelter of the trees rather than the open road. When we got to Pound Swamp Mountain, I no longer had the energy to try to keep up with Alistair. I started to hike my own hike which is what I should have done from the beginning.

When we got to the Irish Potato, Alistair went straight. I yelled to him that I think he is off the trail because I did not see any markers. Alistair kept going and I followed because I didn’t want us to get separated. When Alistair reached the campground, he realized that this was not the trail. Rather than go back, Alistair started bushwhacking, I assume to try and pick up the trail again. I followed Alistair through the town of Tickville and we eventually found our way back to the Irish Potato where we picked the trail again.

When we got to the fire tower on Jackie Jones Mountain, Alistair asked me if I wanted to climb it. I think that he was kidding because I had enough climbing left to do on the trail. I did not have the desire or the energy to climb up there. So we moved on and I was able to get up Big Hill and Ladentown Mountain at my own pace without stopping to rest. We stopped just before climbing Limekiln Mountain where I announced to Alistair that we now had 10 miles left. This was equivalent to starting a day hike at 3:30 PM. I forced down two more handfuls of trail-mix and we started climbing again.

I was slowing down and Alistair claimed that he was too but I could no longer keep him in sight. I began to get worried about being injured with Alistair beyond communication range carrying my first-aid kit. I had twisted my ankle several times already but was able to walk it off so far. When we got to the top of Panther Mountain, I asked Alistair if I should take my stuff back. At the least I would need my headlamp. Alistair didn’t think we would need our headlamps. Maybe Alistair would not need his but I knew better. I guess Alistair did not want me to carry the extra weight, Instead Alistair talked about doing the last 9 miles in 3 hours. Maybe he could do that but not me!

When we got to the Stone Memorial Shelter, Alistair asked me how much mileage we had left. I said 5 miles but I think that I was a little off because it was a very long 5 miles. I warned Alistair about the upcoming boulder field that is hard to navigate. Mostly because the sun is in your eyes and you can’t see the markers but also because you are looking down most of the time while hoping from boulder to boulder. When we got to the boulder field, Alistair slowed down so I took the lead until we were out of it.

When we got to the first pipeline crossing, I was feeling much better now that the sun was going down. I even picked up my pace in the hope of avoiding the use of a headlamp for the final steep, rocky descent where you step on leaves between jutting boulders. By the time we got to the last powerline crossing, I knew we were not going to be out before dark so I asked Alistair for my headlamp. This time I got it. Except for the tunnel vision the headlamp causes, I think that psychologically, it is easier to get down Nordkop Mountain at night because you can’t see how steep it is. We got back to the car at 9 PM and it started raining at 9:20 PM.

The hike took 13.5 hours mostly because I was trying to keep up with Alistair. This was a tough, grueling hike but not the toughest that I have ever done. I was still in pretty good shape at the end of this hike and I think that from what I learned for this experience will better prepare me for my next long distance day hike. What I was lacking besides common sense, was stamina caused by improper nutrition. A tick check would later reveal only one bug bite but no ticks. I consider myself very lucky. A special thanks goes to Alistair without whom, I probably would not have finished this hike.

Jay H
06-01-2006, 07:26 AM
Sounds like an exciting hike!

The trail kind of turns left going down the gentle slope after the 'irish potato'. You guys obviously found the camp by Lake Welsh. If you climb the firetower at Jacky Jones, you get a good view of the lake and the camp/beach on the far side.

The worst part as far as elevation goes is kind of west mtn, but after Big Hill and the LP shelter, it's a long ridge down to Suffern, pretty much.

The rocks you talk about is kind of neat. I believe you cross a white trail that heads towards/from Kakiat Park there and a fireroad and a campsite.

The last section before you hit the road is kind of steep but there are some nice viewpoints of the Thruway there ;)

Did you two ever get in contact with the guy from AMC regarding the patches?

I don't remember Fred and I's time, nor do I really care enough to keep track of those sorts of things, but I did it in full hiking boots...

[ edit ] I just asked Fred what our time what cause I know he has these things somewhere squirrelled away.

hiking time 10:20, total time (lunch, stops, camera taking) 11:25

Jay

billandjudy
06-01-2006, 08:49 AM
Quite the hike and adventure, Ice--Overheating is no fun--
Just curious though--why a 30 lb pack for a dayhike? (a long one I know)--I carry less than that for a 2-3 day backpack trip.
As for water/gatorade, I much prefer plain water and use some sort of Goo or fortified honey packs for electrolytes. Gatorade make me thirsty and gives me heartburn :smile:
What was your starting point? I'd like to map it out on a Topo program--sounds like a neat trip. I live very near Harriman and have hiked there several times.

Jay H
06-01-2006, 09:35 AM
My friend and I starting right at the Bear Mountain Inn and parked there as that is the start of the SBM trail. The trail literally ends on a sidewalk in the town of Suffern, not a trailhead with parking just south of an Irish Pub.

Jay

TFR
06-01-2006, 10:32 AM
I do not like using DEET because it is hazardous to my health. According to this article (http://www.outdoors.org/publications/outdoors/2006/insectrepellents.cfm), DEET is not particularly unsafe for humans, although it can melt certain types of plastic! :eek:

We were looking for the Jackie Jones fire tower recently, but couldn't find the trailhead. A little map searching when we got home helped us figure out where we should have started. Oh well...

Nice TR!

alistair
06-01-2006, 12:36 PM
Iceman/Brian
Thanks for a great day hiking. Your trail report makes me sound like 1/2 savior :oops: and 1/2 slavemaster :twisted: ?

In 85 degree temperature this was a serious hike.

Iceman
06-01-2006, 04:47 PM
Did you two ever get in contact with the guy from AMC regarding the patches?
Yes, I heard from him today! :D

total time (lunch, stops, camera taking) 11:25
I could have matched this in my younger days! ;)
I think that with cooler temps and proper nutrition, Alistair's estimate of 12 hours would have been achievable.

but I did it in full hiking boots...
Alistair and I both did this hike in trail runners. I was very careful about my footing trying to keep it as level as possible. My ankles and feet were fine at the end however Alistair did complain that his feet were burning.

why a 30 lb pack for a dayhike?
Well, in general I tend to overpack. I didn't want to say this for fear that no one would want to hike with me but I seem to be accident prone. :oops: The 6 liters of Gatorade weighs 13 pounds. I probably drank about 10 liters on the trail. If I were to do this hike again, I would bring my 2 liter hydration sack and have more water drops. There was the 7 pounds that I gave Alistair and I admit that I probably overdid it with the spare batteries. The pack is very comfortable and weighs 3 pounds by itself. I had about 2 pounds worth of food/sugar. Another 2 pounds of spare clothing and raingear. And figure maybe another 2 pounds of odds-and-ends like camera, walkman(in case Alistair took off on me), compass, sunsceen, etc, etc.

As for water/gatorade, I much prefer plain water and use some sort of Goo or fortified honey packs for electrolytes. Gatorade make me thirsty and gives me heartburn

The Goo is a good idea, I'll have to try that. It will keep my hydration sack a lot cleaner if I only keep water in it. I found that the fruit punch flavored Gatorade does not give me heartburn.

What was your starting point?
We started at the Bear Mountain Inn in order to get the largest elevation changes out of the way first. The SBM (yellow) trail starts right there on the AT and follows it for a while before skirting around the side of Bear Mtn. It's sort of like walking on an unimproved road. If I were doing this as a winter day hike, I would consider starting at the other end (Suffern) based on the belief that I think it is easier to go up the steepest route during winter than down (if you can't butt slide).

DEET is not particularly unsafe for humans
I am one of those humans that breaks out in a contact rash and boy does it burn!

1/2 slavemaster?
You were not that bad, I just could not keep up with you, especially when you were running downhill! :smile: